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Brake job Write-up and pictures

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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Webmaster » Thu Sep 20, 2012 3:33 pm

Don't thank God, thank me, LOL.

knowitall
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by knowitall » Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:38 pm

Webmaster wrote:Don't thank God, thank me, LOL.
Especially if it's not a Christian God. :lol:

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Africa_FS_07
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Africa_FS_07 » Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:56 am

Webmaster wrote:Don't thank God, thank me, LOL.
well, if you check again, i did say "well done, webmaster" in this thread and in the other topic. :lol:

i've already thanked HIM, HE doesn't share HIS Glory with anyone. 8)


to the mundane "lord of the artful dodgers", knowitall: the Protestant Churches rejoice and are joyful in Jehovah God and HIS Son always....
i wonder who "Voodoo Bob of the Dead Poets Society" is hounding now.....:mrgreen:

Sol_searchin
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Sol_searchin » Thu Oct 18, 2012 4:22 am

Not sure if its been said, but you can use a ratchet and socket instead of box wrenches

fang
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by fang » Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:32 am

I might have missed it in the 10 pages here, but if you are replacing the rotors, after taking off the wheel, set the emergency brake and then try to remove the 40 torx screw from the rotor. I made the mistake of not doing that on my first one and got the screw half way out before the soft metal got stripped.

Other notes - I went ahead and purchased the retraction tool from Amazon from $37 or so. Wow - that is so much easier than my old way of a C clamp and channel locks.

The lower 15mm bolt - well, I will never worry about that ever falling out. Thankfully I have a leverage pipe that I put over my ratchet, or I never would have gotten that unscrewed.

The dealer was going to give us 10% discount and “only” charge $450 for rear brakes and rotors. I did it, with buying the new tool I can use on that my VW, for under $200.

It has been a few years since I have done brakes. My second set of brakes went on about two thirds faster than the first set.

I don’t own a caliper, but the new rotors looked to be about the same thickness as the ones I replaced. I wonder if I really need to do that. That would have saved me close to $100.

I purchased the Raybestos Professional brand brakes and rotors ordered from Rock Auto. I make the mistake of just putting on whatever the local auto parts sold last time and had to live with squeaking brakes.

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nydavef
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by nydavef » Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:01 pm

Did my rear brakes this afternoon.(2008 T-Rex) The rotor retaining bolt was a pain! Passenger side came out OK, but the driver side ALMOST stripped. A friend came over with a hammer type impact wrench and some PB blaster (sprayed some on the back of the bolt also), and it finally came out. I didn't want to put it back in, and we couldn't find a reason that it is needed. I left it out for now. Is this a Ford only part? I looked at several parts places online and couldn't find one. Thanks
2008 Taurus-X SEL AWD 106,000 miles(traded in)
1999 Explorer XLT 4x4 206,000 miles
1999 F-150 XLT 4x4 140,000 miles
1986 T-Bird Turbo 30,000 miles
1981 Honda CBX 25,000 miles
1979 Suzuki GS1000E 28,000 miles
1967 Gravely Commercial 10

WI05Freestyle
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by WI05Freestyle » Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:26 pm

The rotor retaining screw is for factory use on the assembly line. Not needed.
03 Ford Explorer Limited V6
06 Ford Freestyle Limited AWD
05 Ford Mustang V6

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nydavef
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by nydavef » Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:34 pm

That's what I thought. Thanks
2008 Taurus-X SEL AWD 106,000 miles(traded in)
1999 Explorer XLT 4x4 206,000 miles
1999 F-150 XLT 4x4 140,000 miles
1986 T-Bird Turbo 30,000 miles
1981 Honda CBX 25,000 miles
1979 Suzuki GS1000E 28,000 miles
1967 Gravely Commercial 10

knowitall
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by knowitall » Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:59 am

nydavef wrote:Did my rear brakes this afternoon.(2008 T-Rex) The rotor retaining bolt was a pain! Passenger side came out OK, but the driver side ALMOST stripped. A friend came over with a hammer type impact wrench and some PB blaster (sprayed some on the back of the bolt also), and it finally came out. I didn't want to put it back in, and we couldn't find a reason that it is needed. I left it out for now. Is this a Ford only part? I looked at several parts places online and couldn't find one. Thanks
Image

To remove the retaining bolt (or screw) use a impact driver set. Works everytime.

Szyszka
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Szyszka » Tue Jan 22, 2013 8:04 am

Just did front pads on my 2006. It was super easy, except removing caliper. The pads were baked into it and it took some elbow grease (plus some brake cleaner) to make everything loose. Did not change the rotors this time as they looked all right.

nightflyer
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by nightflyer » Sat Apr 13, 2013 10:01 pm

Has anyone tried the NAPA brand pads or Adaptive One? How about Rayloc Tru-Stops? I need to do a front brake job including rotor replacement on my 06. I'm going to need to check my calipers as well since it seems like I'm either getting hot spots in the rotors or one of my calipers may be seizing. I really can't afford a lot, but I'm not going cheap just to save money. I'm not getting Wagner, either. I have those on my Hyundai right now and they've been trouble ever since they were put on.
2006 FWD Ford Freestyle SEL
2004 Hyundai Sonata 2.7 V6 base

z3braman
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by z3braman » Sun Jul 14, 2013 7:55 am

Did my rear brakes yesterday 2005 2WD Freestyle 150k. I had the front brakes done a year ago with new rotors at a shop. He said I still had a little to go on the rear. With my wife out of the house I looked for something interesting to do and thought I'd do the brakes.
Found pads for 22 dollars at Autozone. Also noted doing some googling about the tool. Autozone had one to rent (although they tried to sell me the box tool). The deposit gets returned so it's a free rent! Nice. The Zone folks didn't have much knowledge to share on the tool however.

For some reason I started on the passenger side and they went really fast. Maybe 20 minutes. The tool worked well.
On the other side I played around trying to figure out the problems reported here. Why wasn't that piston going in?
Back to google and I find it's counterclock wise on the passenger side! Still I didn't figure you had to maintain pressure while you turned. Turning the wrong way I had moved the caliper closer so the tool was hard to fit in place. Did I say that it was a really hot day and I had no beer in the house?

Long story short, I used the ratchet drive to get enough space back to fit the tool. The trick to the passenger side is that you have to tighten the collar nut at the same time you turn the center screw. That way there is constant pressure on the piston while you turn and it pushes it back in. I had tried turning alone with the ratchet for many turns to no avail.

I don't think the caliper is threaded other than the emergency brake mechanism. I would have to see this opened to understand how it works (Next stop on my google tour).

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Africa_FS_07
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Africa_FS_07 » Tue Dec 03, 2013 12:33 pm

Jack Watts wrote:Africa FS, you must be new to the forum. This comes up about 90% of the time someone does the rear pads on this car...

http://www.myfordfreestyle.com/forums/v ... f=1&t=5208

I think that's one of about 40 threads on the subject! Given your location, you can't readily get the tool, so you may want to fabricate something, maybe a c-clamp with the tool you're currently using. Bottom line, you have to exert a LOT of inward force while turning at the same time; otherwise, the piston will just keep spinning.
well, we changed the Rear Pads over the weekend.....rears were Akebono Pro Acts.

i started hearing a squealing noise which got worse and worse by the day, mech said "Pads", i said "No way"....... i didn't believe the Pads could do that so early, given that they've been there for only 6,000 miles :shock:

both Front (Motorcrafts) and Rear Pads (Akebonos) were put in there at the same time.

we pulled the rears out, and there was still A LOT of meat left on them, how could they start to squeal with so much meat (i'll post the pictures later) ?

still, i doubted the mech, but as soon as we put in the new Motorcafts, the Rear squealing stopped! :shock:

getting the Pistons turned in was much more easy this time because i checked the arrow direction first and pushed hard while turning, even without the right tool.....we used a good old Plier, still worked with about 10 turns each.

two of the Glide Pins were stiff and needed greasing.

now, i'm hearing the FRONT Pads start to squeal......Motorcrafts......now what???? :x :evil:
i wonder who "Voodoo Bob of the Dead Poets Society" is hounding now.....:mrgreen:

FordFairLane
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by FordFairLane » Thu Oct 16, 2014 11:32 am

So I might have missed it but to change the rear calipers you have to unhook the parking brake and there's a spring to stop pressure from being applied when not on. So from what I can tell to get the new caliper on with the parking break I need to compress this spring so I can slide the bracket over the wire and slide the bracket into place and then release the spring. Any tool that has been used to make this job easier? I don't know if they make a spring compression tool that small.

brijack515
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by brijack515 » Thu Oct 16, 2014 7:59 pm

Hello all.

Have changed many a rear brakes on my FS's over the years. My kids think of me as Magyver when it comes to making things easier. Hence, I have found an easier way to accomplish the task without any bungy cords or zip ties.

With the caliper mounted as it is intended, remove the two 13mm bolts. Loosen the caliper and remove from the old pads. Leave the guide pins in place. Do not lay the caliper out of the way. Instead, using the lower caliper mounting hole, set it to the top guide pin with one of the 13mm bolts and tighten snug. you now have a solid position to use the piston turning tool. Works for both sides effectively.

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