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AWD Maintence: Part 1

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Jack Watts
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AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by Jack Watts » Wed Sep 15, 2010 5:04 pm

On the all Freestyles, the power goes from the engine to the transmission. From there, for the FWD cars the power goes to the half shafts, end of story. You FWD readers can stop reading.

For AWD, power goes from the CVT to a Power Transfer Unit, PTU (Volvo refers to this as the bevel gear). From there, power goes to the front wheels via the half shafts and the rear via a drive shaft. It first reaches the Haldex unit and then the rear differential.

All 3 of these units contain fluid and seal units with "lifetime fluid". If your idea of lifetime is 100K miles, things will probably work out. If you plan on keeping your car for much longer than that, if you're buying a used car with some mileage on it, if you'd like to keep the value of your car, or if you just don't believe in wasting things, you should consider changing all of these fluids.

Part 1 will focus on the front PTU fluid.

Needed: 13mm socket, socket extension (long), swivel socket or an off-set 13mm wrench, crush washer*, fluid pump, replacement fluid**

*crush washer can be aluminum or copper. It's an odd size, bigger ID than most. It's the same one used on a lot of Euro drain plugs, Volvo/BMW.

Crush washer: http://amzn.to/2iQ9Phf

**fluid must meet GL-5 specification, with an operating viscosity of 90W. Originally the cars came w/80W90. Ford now recommends this fluid here: <bad link>

I used Mobil1 LS75W90, which is a full synthetic and meets the GL-5 requirement. The new Motorcraft spec is also full synthetic, but I got what was available.

Volvo fluid (same stuff): http://amzn.to/2iQ7dQR

Get the car level. How you do this is up to you. You can park on a flat surface, support the car on 4 jack stands, or park on a very slight incline and put it on some low ramps (that's what I did--do at your own risk). If you aren't too big, you don't even need to raise the car. The car must be level to set the fluid level.

Undo the fill bolt. Get under the car just behind the engine/transmission. The bolt is visible just above a subframe member, looking towards the front of the car. You can see it here: <pic deleted by user>

Obviously, the camera is tilted a little...




You can probably reach around from the front with an off-set wrench. I went in from behind, over the subframe with a swivel socket and extension bar like so:

<pic deleted by user>

EDIT: on second thought, if you have an offset 13mm wrench, this is probably easier if you go in from underneath the front of the car.

Remove the bolt and set aside. Next, take your fluid pump, and insert the tube into the PTU. This is the only tricky part. You have to push the tube down to snake it to the bottom of the PTU to suck out all of the fluid. It took a few tries and and I got it in there. Then start pumping! You can use a fancy MityVac. I actually used this here:

http://amzn.to/2jtSdKf

Most auto places will also have these for < $10.00. When using it, you'll have to use the small black tube attached to the larger tube (per the pump's instructions), since it's a tight fit.

I removed about 9-10 oz. It holds about 30oz. Clean out the lines from your fluid pump, put a few squirts of fluid in the pump to get clear fluid coming out, insert the tube into the PTU, then pump until fluid starts to drain out. Proper fill level is even with the bottom hole, so it's impossible to overfill if the car is level. Put on new crush washer, re-install drain plug to "pretty tight". With swivel sockets and extensions, torque is pretty much useless (it's in the 30 ft-lb range).

Test drive and make sure nothing is leaking. That's it, you're done!

Some random thoughts:

-EDIT: I updated the fill capacity. It was wrong in my factory manual. It's actually .9L, not pints...so around 30 oz. Since I only got out 10 oz the first time, I did 2 more drain/fills. I managed to get out around 14 oz on the subsequent removals. By the 3rd one, the fluid was looking pretty clear. As a reality check, make sure to put back the roughly same quantity that you removed.

-The fluid looked pretty bad. I think you'd be crazy to leave this fluid in there if you plan on keeping the car for a long time. "lifetime" pretty much means "150K and then it's worn out. There's simply no reason not to service this part unless you want a disposable car.

-Volvo has a procedure to do this, but it involves drilling a hole in the transfer case and tapping it for a drain plug. At first I thought this was crazy. After seeing the fluid, I'm thinking that it wouldn't be a horrible idea, though it's not necessary. If would make it easier though than snaking the tube into the PTU. My local Volvo guy will do it for $80.00.

-If you're not into DIY, take it to an independent Volvo guy and tell you want the Bevel gear fluid, Haldex and rear differential fluid changed. The layout is similar to a V/S70, XC70. This is a pretty common procedure, so they're know what you're talking about.

I'll go over the Haldex fluid and rear diff. in another post
Last edited by Jack Watts on Fri Sep 24, 2010 5:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

parthur12
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by parthur12 » Thu Sep 16, 2010 8:15 am

Great post and good pics, I am planning on doing this to my wife's FS05, Reading somewhere in this forum, I have the idea that there is a filter in the Haldex or Rear differential?? I am not sure about this if you know can clarify!! ( and the part # would be great too.)
As far as Fluid I can switch to Mobil 1? in the PTU, Haldex and Rear Diff? I prefer Mobil 1 but I am not sure about this either!!

Now if someone has the how to do it for the CVT fluid and filter change would be appreciated.
Thanks a lot Jack Watts and keep us posted.

Jack Watts
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Re: AWD Maintence

Post by Jack Watts » Thu Sep 16, 2010 12:34 pm

Thanks. I figured I've poached enough info off of the interwebs that I should try to contribute some! Kudos to the Volvo guys who first started doing this.

-you can use a GL-5 rated 75W90 in the PTU and the rear diff. However, for the PTU, Folvo recommends an "extra low-foaming" formulation(Volvo's BOT spec). Based on this link here, I'd stick with either Amsoil's Severe Gear 75W90, or Mobil1 Synthetic LS75W90: <bad link> The M1 is easy to find, so that's what I used.

-for the Haldex unit, you're stuck using the Volvo/Motorcraft fluid, old part # 116-1641, new part# XL13. The Volvo PN seems to be to topic of constant debate. The fluid is expensive, BTW. $22-$26.00 for a pint! You need .7 pint. There's no substitution for this one.

-The Haldex filter is readily accessible, but I've never actually seen it for sale, anywhere, for the Gen 3 Haldex. I've seen the condition of the fluid when folks have drained it, and it never seems that bad. My guess is that if the filter needs changed, it's because there's a problem w/something else like the oil pump or DEM causing a malfunction and burning up the fluid.

-regarding the CVT, I just wrote this up. I should probably cut and past this to its own thread so people searching can find it.

viewtopic.php?t=3906

Jack Watts
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by Jack Watts » Sat Sep 18, 2010 9:49 am

OK, so I did the Haldex fluid and rear differential fluids yesterday.

Tools needed:

-13mm wrench or socket. Flex head ratchet will help

-fluid pump

-AOC fluid. Ford Part# XL13 or Volvo 30759648.

-rear differential fluid, 75 or 80-90W, GL-5

-funny-sized crush washer

I'll get some pics up later. The ones I took didn't turn out, at all. First off, I'd suggest ignoring the factory service manual since it mis-labels one of the fill bolts as a mounting bolt...
The bolt I suspected was the fill bolt was, in fact, a fill bolt. That's what I get for reading the manual...

1. get the car level. You absolutely have to do this. The AOC fluid is sensitive to fluid level and some Volvo guys have over-filled by putting the car on ramps and filling. You could just add in what you take out. In my case, the rear differential was underfilled, AOC wasn't. You can do this without raising the car. It's tight, but it can be done. Get under the car from the rear and slide under it (it you're claustrophobic, you'll have to put the car on stands*). The rear differential is the big silver thing! It's right near the gas tank. The DEM cover is stamped with a Haldex label, the fill bolts are rearward of that. There are 2 fill bolts right next to each other, 13mm. The one closest to the front of the car is the Haldex fluid. The more rearward bolt is for the differential.

2. remove bolt, insert tube from fluid pump. Fish tube as low as possible (very easy on each unit), remove as much fluid as possible and measure.

3. reverse fluid pump and pump in new fluid until it starts to flow out of the fill plug. Install crush washer and bolt, torque to 30 ft lb or "pretty tight". Don't go crazy. You have to crush the crush washer, but the housing is aluminum.

That's it. Accessibility is good. There's a wire clipped up there you may just want to manually un-clip and get out of the way for even easier access. A couple of notes:

-buy the Volvo fluid. My local Volvo dealer sold it to me for $28.00 for 300ML, the Ford fluid was $25.00 for 8 oz. The problem? I got out about 9 oz... The Volvo fluid also comes in a handy tube (like a tube of caulk), so you can install it with no worry of contamination. You just push the fluid out with your finger or a screwdriver. The fluid is really thin, like lighter fluid, so it comes out easily. You must use either the Ford or Volvo fluid, no substitutions. The parts nos. listed are the new, updated numbers. I've seen the fluid online for pretty cheap: http://amzn.to/2k6ftNu

-I did not pull the filter. It's also readily accessible. There are two small allen bolts holding it in. Here's a picture of the Haldex/differential on the FS. Unfortunately, the fill bolts are on the other size, so you can't see them in this pic: <pic deleted by user>. I may pull it out at some point and have a look. I haven't seen the filters for sale anywhere.

-I got out about 26 oz. out of the rear differential. I believe the capacity is 27 oz. I've seen the AOC fluid capacity listed 7 different ways, including Ford's own literature, so I have no idea as to what it actually holds. I've guessing 11oz is correct (.7 pints). I got out around 9, with the remaining fluid in the filter and pump I imagine.

-The Haldex fluid looked pretty dark, much worse than pics I've seen from others. The rear differential fluid, which is mineral-based oil, was horrible. There was quite a bit of debris/metal paste on the bottom of the fill plug, and the fluid was black.

If you plan on keeping your vehicle past 100K, I think you'd be crazy not to change out these fluids, particularly since it's so simple. If you don't want to DIY, an independent Volvo shop should do it pretty cheaply. It's actually easier than the Volvo, due to the location of the rear diff. fill bolt.

-The rear differential holds about

parthur12
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by parthur12 » Wed Sep 22, 2010 3:39 am

........The rear differential hold about....??

Great post, please keep on, I am planning on doing this myself but would like to read and read a lot before actually doing it, just to have enough information to prevent any mistake and end up damaging the transsmission.

Jack Watts
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by Jack Watts » Fri Sep 24, 2010 5:29 pm

parthur12 wrote:........The rear differential hold about....??

Great post, please keep on, I am planning on doing this myself but would like to read and read a lot before actually doing it, just to have enough information to prevent any mistake and end up damaging the transsmission.
Sorry, I have to clean up that post. The rear differential holds .7 liters, or around 28 oz. My FSM actually had some errors on capacities, so I had to do some more digging. That said, fill it up until it starts to run out of the fill hole, then let it drain or just suck out an oz. or two, and make sure you're putting in roughly what you pulled out. On the front PTU in particular, make sure not to overfill. The best way is to make sure the car is totally level. You're probably best off to let it start streaming out, then remove 1-2 oz. If it's overfilled, you'll risk putting too much pressure on the seals.

The Haldex unit takes around 28 oz as well, so I'm going to do another drain/fill on that and change the filter. I'll take some more pics when I do that one again.

parthur12
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by parthur12 » Sat Oct 02, 2010 10:17 am

Thanks a lot Jack Watts, I am more informed and getting comfortable enough to do it myself.... please continue with this nice DIY threat and when you do the haldex fluid and filter, please post some pics and how to remove the filter.
Thanks

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Imperial Death Star
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by Imperial Death Star » Sat Oct 02, 2010 3:42 pm

First off, I'd suggest ignoring the factory service manual since it mis-labels one of the fill bolts as a mounting bolt...
The bolt I suspected was the fill bolt was, in fact, a fill bolt. That's what I get for reading the manual...

That's why I couldn't get the damn bolt off! I have the fluid , but I just couldn't get the damn fill plug ,off.
It' would be great if you have some pics, Thanks Jack.
2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

Jack Watts
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by Jack Watts » Sat Oct 02, 2010 5:38 pm

Here are some really lousy pics of the rear differential and Hadlex fill bolts. As you can see, the flash was either too bright, or not bright enough...

The fill holes are on the driver's side of the rear differential/Haldex unit. The Haldex and rear diff are two separate units, but mated together. The Haldex couple is the part towards the front of the car, the rear diff towards the back. The unit is basically between the rear wheels, so it's easiest to crawl under the car just behind the rear wheel from the driver's side.

The Haldex bolt is the 13mm bolt towards the front of the car. The rear diff bolt is directly to its right, towards the rear of the car, also 13mm. The bolts are pretty much next to each other.

Image

This is the picture of the entire Haldex/rear diff. The fill plugs are in the upper portion, where it gets dark (sorry!). In this picture you can see the Haldex fill plug. The rear diff is just to its right, but obscured:

Image


I plan on taking some better pictures and cleaning up the tutorial. I'll put it into a PDF and also post it on here. In the meantime though, this should make it pretty clear.

I don't have a picture of the Haldex fiter right now, but if you look at the exploded Hadlex diagram posted on here, it's exactly in the same position. There's a round oil pump (held on w/2 4mm allen bolts) and the filter is above it and to the left, held on by 2 4mm allen bolts... There are really only 2 tricky parts to removing it; removing the top allen bolt, and pulling out the filter.

The top allen bolt is up there, so it's hard to get in there with an allen key. Fortunately, my main hobby is bikes, not cars, so I have a bunch of different sized allens around. You'll need a loose, short 4mm, so you can position it just right, and you can push the gas tank shroud up a little bit for some more clearance. After you break the torque of the top bolt, you can easily remove it with the ball end of a 4mm allen. DO NOT try to break the torque or do the final tightening with the ball end of the allen key! You'll break it off and make a lot more work for yourself.

After the cap comes off, there's a spring in the filter. Pull that out. If the filter comes out with it, great (it probably won't). The filter is seated w/an o-ring. You'll need to insert something like a screw driver into the hole of the filter at an angle with some pressure (hard to explain, easy to do once you're under there) and pull. You could also insert some snap ring or needle nose pliers and open them up and pull the filter out that way.

To install the new one, put some new Haldex fluid on the o-ring of the filter, and push it in until you hear a click or pop. The final pressure will come from the filter cap. Tighten the bolts evenly, alternating between the two. Make sure the filter cap sits flush.

Hopefully that helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.

parthur12
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by parthur12 » Tue Oct 05, 2010 8:45 am

Thanks for all the info. Here are some pics of my Haldex unit and the rear differential; I am not sure but seems like mine is a little different than yours jack watts or maybe it's the angle of the camera, anyway; I'd like to confirm the fill plug for the haldex is the one with the red arrow?? now for the rear diff, I could not find it; Can someone tell me or mark on the picture where it is.
Thanks.
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Jack Watts
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by Jack Watts » Tue Oct 05, 2010 1:14 pm

parthur12 wrote:Thanks for all the info. Here are some pics of my Haldex unit and the rear differential; I am not sure but seems like mine is a little different than yours jack watts or maybe it's the angle of the camera, anyway; I'd like to confirm the fill plug for the haldex is the one with the red arrow?? now for the rear diff, I could not find it; Can someone tell me or mark on the picture where it is.
Thanks.
Nope, that's not it. Our cars are the same, you're just looking in the wrong place. If you look at the photo will the fill bolt removed in the one I just posted, the fill bolt runs parallel to the black metal rod visible in both of our pictures--NOT perpendicular to it. IOW, it runs parallel to the stabilizer bar (that black thing). It's tucked up fairly high, just above the stabilizer bar. If you crawl under the rear driver's side wheel and look just above the black tube, you'll see it, two 13mm bolts right next to each other.

To access the filter, you'll crawl around to where you took the picture.

Let me know if you find it, and feel free to post another picture. But once you see the bolts next to each other, it'll be pretty obvious.

Jack Watts
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by Jack Watts » Wed Oct 06, 2010 4:30 pm

Here are some better pictures. The first one, I'm pointing to the location. As you can see, it's up pretty high. I actually accessed the vehicle from the back, and again this is the perspective from the driver's side:

Image

Next, here's a close-up on the area to which I'm pointing in the previous photo. You can clearly see, up high, the 2 13mm bolts:

<pic deleted by user>

parthur12
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by parthur12 » Wed Oct 06, 2010 7:12 pm

Thank you Sr. I really appreciate your help and guidance, I'll be doing this soon. I also went under my FS and took some pics, the only thing that confused me, was that both bolts (13mm) seem to be part of the haldex (same piece of metal)?? I also took another pic. to make sure the location of the filter.
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I thought both belonged to haldex
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Filter location Red arrow
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Jack Watts
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by Jack Watts » Wed Oct 06, 2010 9:04 pm

The Haldex unit and the rear differential are two "separate" units, but they're joined together, which is why those 2 bolts are right next to each other.

When you insert the tubing into the (front) Haldex portion, the tubing will snake towards the front of the car. For the rearward differential bolt, the tubing will snake towards the back (you can clearly see the differential housing, which is where the fluid is located. When you put the tubing in, you'll have to jiggle it back and forth a little when putting it down the fill hole. I got about half out of the Haldex unit, almost all of it out of the rear differential. If you're doing the filter at the same time, you may want to put the vacuum tubing in there as well to see if you can suck out any more fluid.

As for the filter, you are pointing to the correct part.

Good luck! I'd be interested to see the condition of your filter and fluid when you pull it out.

SGR 2005
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Re: AWD Maintence: Part 1

Post by SGR 2005 » Fri Oct 29, 2010 1:31 pm

My 05 is throwing awd malfunction code now, I have been reading up on repairs to it and have not found info on repairing it myself yet. A few referanves to the volvo parts and the oil pump that needs replacing. are you aware of any articles on doing the repair on my own? I cant stomach putting 3-4k in this thing...

Any info would be appriciated

Sean

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