OK, I got a picture and annotated it to show how the mount works. Here's what the Yakima Landing Pad 4 looks like when inserted into the groove of the Taurus X roof rails. Two plates are installed on the screw.BenS wrote:LarryQW wrote: The dealer tried out the Landing Pad 4 (before Yakima withdrew it's recommendation) and found it had an issue in that the Landing Pad barely covered the slot. As such, the screw could tilt and one side of the pad could slide over and fall into the slot, allowing the pad to loosen.
He McGuyver'd up a solution using two plates, an A and C plate. The larger plate was on the bottom of the rail and clamped the pad down. The thinner plate also went through the screw, but placed higher up in the slot to prevent the landing pad from moving sideways. The slot is not uniform and has a slight V shape, so if the smaller plate is put at the right point in height, the pad is locked in solid so it can't move sideways, making a secure mount. I'll try to get pictures if I can figure out how to attach them.
this sounds great! I want to transport my 15ft kayak and need to install cross bars (do not have a hinch) and was surprised how difficult it is to find a solution. All the dealers I contacted said foam blocks would be the solution at the moment .... (because neither the Thule 450 Crossroads nor the Yakima Low Rider solution works for me)
If you could post some pictures and could be a bit more specific on the plates you use, I would highly appreciate!
1. The larger lower Clamp Plate (Yakima C plate) on the bottom is what comes standard with Yakima's Landing Pad 4. This lower clamp plate can be inserted into the slot at an angle before the screw is inserted. Then the screw is threaded into the plate and tightened while holding the plate with a finger so it doesn't rotate until it's tight. The only problem is that with this lower clamping plate alone, the screw can tilt a little, or the lower clampling plate can slide a little to the side, and then one edge of the narrow landing pad can fall into the wide slot. Then the clamp becomes loose and can eventually unscrew and fall off.
2. The above instability issue is fixed by adding a second smaller Spacer Plate (Yakima A plate) on the screw. My dealer had extras of these smaller Yakima plates lying around. This smaller Spacer Plate needs to be screwed on first and a proper spacing or protrusion of the screw applied before also threading into the lower Clamp Plate under the rail. This smaller Spacer Plate, if positioned at the right height, will wedge tight into the tapered slot of the rail, and hold the screw firmly upright, and completely prevent the Landing Pad from sliding off to the side.
We were able to pound and pull hard on the side of the landing pad after this fix until the whole car shook, and the Landing Pads held very solid.