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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 4:46 pm
by mike9476
I just changed the rear pads on my wife's. 48K miles. Rears were worn almost all the way; I didn't touch the front as they still have a lot of pad left. $29.99 at Advance Auto for Ceramic pads and $9 for the "cube of death" tool. Done in 1:15 minutes using the included jack and this was my first car brake job. Rotors were fine so I left them alone.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 6:29 pm
by nburd
I just did the front, 43K miles. 1.5 hours flat, new rotors and ceramic pads. I found the same adhesive Ford used for the pads. Perfect job. Brakes are like new. Had no idea they were so bad. Pads had 1/8-3/16" left. Interesting thing the pads were cracked.

...Norm

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 10:34 am
by spock8113
Thanks to everyone here, I managed to get through a rear brake job relatively unscathed.
I managed to also get a few more pictures that may be helpful:

perhaps a slighlty better picture of the arrow on the piston housing that shows what direction to turn the cylinder inward. Be prepared, it's a fine thread with about 100 turns from the fully extended position!
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The "Magic" piston turner tool, $11 at Sears.
Be sure to keep a fair amount of inward pressure on the tool to keep it locked into the cylinder slots. It does slip out if you don't, busting knuckles!
Image

This is the card it came on at the tool display so you know what you're looking for:
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 11:25 am
by Jack Watts
That little square piston tool really sucks. Almost a year after doing my brakes, my knuckles are still sore....

So, as a public service, I'll mention that Harbor Freight has this thing on sale. I was in there looking for something else and I said to myself "if I see that tool kit on sale, I'm going to get it". Well, it's on sale:

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-piece-d ... 97143.html

I did the rear pads at 75K and honestly, they weren't even that bad (they may have been done at 18K under warranty before I got the car, but I'm not sure). Still, I love this car and plan on having it for a while, so I figured I should have this on-hand for the next time.

This kit has both the left and right-hand threaded piston tools, which you need for the Freestyle.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 12:40 pm
by nburd
Great Kit. When I lived in CA and bought my FS, there was a Harbor Freight 20 minutes away. I bought the smaller of these kits (It was under $20.00) and it worked great. I will use it every 30,000 miles I am sure. (15K more to go).

It is nice as it turns and pushes at the same time. No knuckles getting scraped. The rear brake job was complete in under 1 hour.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 5:01 am
by WGRoper
Jack Watts wrote:That little square piston tool really sucks. Almost a year after doing my brakes, my knuckles are still sore....

So, as a public service, I'll mention that Harbor Freight has this thing on sale. I was in there looking for something else and I said to myself "if I see that tool kit on sale, I'm going to get it". Well, it's on sale:

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-piece-d ... 97143.html

I did the rear pads at 75K and honestly, they weren't even that bad (they may have been done at 18K under warranty before I got the car, but I'm not sure). Still, I love this car and plan on having it for a while, so I figured I should have this on-hand for the next time.

This kit has both the left and right-hand threaded piston tools, which you need for the Freestyle.
I'll have to pick up one of those kits, it's especially nice since it's got two tools, one for the left and one for the right.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 7:08 pm
by veeight
I noticed the wife's 2005 FreeStyle front brakes were making some grating sounds when applying the brakes at low speeds with the windows down. It was so bad, SHE actually noticed it and mentioned it to me.

The FS has approximately 77k miles. The front brakes were factory stock. The rears had been reworked by Ford under recall at 33k miles. They replaced the rear pads with Bosch parts and machined the rear rotors.

I went ahead and decided to bleed the brakes and replace the front pads. I used about 2.5 pints of Ford brake fluid. I also used Raybestos ATD pads (PN: ATD1070C). The front rotors had plenty of life left and I decided not to have them turned as I had no pedal pulsations and the friction surfaces were very smooth (no deep grooves). The rotors measured out at just over 28mm thickness (minimum spec is 26mm; minimum thickness to machine is 27.1mm)

The factory Ford pads have a very strong adhesive on the shims that caused me to resort to hammering to separate them from the calipers. The cheap store brand brake cleaner I used was not strong enough to release the adhesive.

The new Raybestos front pad frictions were 11.18mm in thickness. The factory Ford pads (which were made by PBR, judging by the markings), still had 6 to 7 mm of life left. I estimate that I had another 45k miles left on the factory pads.

I managed to damage one of the caliper slide pin boots (bonded metal/rubber type) that is press fit into the anchor plate. The aftermarket replacement (USA Brake 8237A) did not have the correct diameter metal sleeve (too small by about 0.3mm) so I had the pry it larger with needle nose pliers until it would press firmly into the anchor plate. Next time I will order a Motorcraft brake hardware kit so maybe they will be the correct diameter. You will need four of these boots to do both front calipers, if they need replacement. I had to special order the boots since no local shops had them in stock. The slide pins were in great shape so I cleaned and lubricated them with high temp grease before reusing.

I would recommend installing new abutment clips (spring clips) instead of reusing them. These are the thin metal clips that go between the brake pad ends and the anchor plate. They are wear items and cheap to replace. High quality brake pads usually come with them (my Raybestos ATD pads kit did). I believe the noise that the wife noticed was caused by these clips being worn and dirty.

I inspected the rear brakes and found that the factory rotors were worn to around 10.3mm in thickness. (minimum spec is 9.5mm; minimum thickness to machine is 10.1mm). When I get around to replacing the rears this fall, I will install new rotors with the pads. The rear pads had about 5mm of life left after 44k miles of wear.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 9:50 am
by tradosaurus
I'm just about finished with the rear brakes. I rented the Brake Caliper tool set from O'Reillys that is similar to the following: http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manual ... /40732.pdf.

The tool works with compressing the drivers side brake piston but the passenger side brake piston turns (counterclockwise) which the tool is not made for.

Referring to the above PDF the way I did it was to have a helper turn the thrust bolt assembly counter clockwise to keep pressure against the piston while I was turning the T-handle counter clockwise. It worked very well and piston was pushed in.

I also ordered the rear brake hardware set for $10.00 which included the rubber boots for the caliper pins and the spring clips.

I installed Wagner thermoquiet brake pads on both front and back.

I also took the rotors in to be turned but I'm waiting to hear back whether there is enough metal to turn it. I may have to buy new ones at $40 each which is cheaper than the $80 I paid for each front rotor.

The rear brake job is really pretty easy all things considered.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 5:40 pm
by dilorc
Thanks to this guide and a video on Youtube, I replaced my front pads with no problems. I'm having some difficulty with the rear pads. I have the tool to spin and compress the piston, but I'm having a problem getting the calipers off. When I did the front I used a C-clamp to compress them enough to get them off. I have a lip of rust on the rotor that I think is the problem. The rears won't budge. Do I need to release the parking brake? Do I just pry them off?

Thanks.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 8:24 pm
by Imperial Death Star
yes, release the e-brake and pry the caliper upward with a screw driver.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 6:07 am
by tradosaurus
dilorc wrote:Thanks to this guide and a video on Youtube, I replaced my front pads with no problems. I'm having some difficulty with the rear pads. I have the tool to spin and compress the piston, but I'm having a problem getting the calipers off. When I did the front I used a C-clamp to compress them enough to get them off. I have a lip of rust on the rotor that I think is the problem. The rears won't budge. Do I need to release the parking brake? Do I just pry them off?

Thanks.
:oops:

:lol:

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 11:21 am
by jcs
Hi,

I'm replacing the rear pads/rotors on my 08 TX. What type of thread locker is suggested for the caliper mount bracket bolts? I don't want to put thread locker on that I can't get off again!

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 1:19 pm
by Imperial Death Star
I use "Blue Thread Lock" doesn't matter what brand, "Blue" states medium strength hold.
"Red Thread Lock" is High strength.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:52 pm
by veeight
I finally got around to doing the rear brakes. I got around 51K miles on them post-Ford recall. I used Raybestos pads (PN PGD1071C). They do not offer the Freestyle rears with the "Advanced" compound, like they do with the fronts. I also replaced the rear rotors with Raybestos parts (680281) since the stockers were turned once already by Ford under recall.
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I tried to use the cube tool and found it useless. The rental tool at Advance Auto would only do one side, so I ordered a set from Harbor Freight, as recommended by Jack Watts on the forum (PN: 97143). I highly recommend this tool set. It takes maybe ten turns to push each piston in with this tool, not hundreds like some experienced. I used the piston adapter marked "G".
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 2:44 pm
by tradosaurus
Great write up.

I rented the smaller tool set from O'Reillys (free) and was able to do both sides fairly easy. See my explanation above.

Since I will probably only be performing this brake job maybe every 4 years I didn't want to waste on a tool that would just take up space in my garage.