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Brake job Write-up and pictures

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geigerdl
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by geigerdl » Sat Feb 20, 2010 9:42 pm

I found a youtube video on how to replace the brakes on a 2006 Freestyle as well. It's a 2 part series and looks like he's doing the front brakes as he's just using a C-Clamp and no special tool on the pistion. Great videos though. Combined with this thread I might just attempt this on my 2006.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwOp0KvEzwA

tblentrprz
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by tblentrprz » Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:59 pm

OK, this rear brake system is nothing out of the ordinary but it seems you have to wrestle with it to get it done!

Here's what I learned. Hope this helps others:
1. Worn rotors will have a lip at the outside edge. No way to collapse the caliper piston back in and allow the pads to clear the lip since the caliper piston is required to be rotated back in. With caliper mounting bolts removed, just pry the caliper off the caliper bracket/anchor plate using a the bracket as the leverage point. This could be a real struggle if pads worn down to metal.

2. Rotor retaining bolt extremely tight. No problem. Grab your T40 torx bit and 1/2" impact gun and get after it! It should come loose. Might use some PB Blaster if hardware is rusty.

3. Remove caliper bracket/anchor plate bolts and the bracket. Remove the rotor FYI - Refresh the anchor plate bolt threads with blue loctite for reuse later.

4. Here is the BIGGY. Mount the caliper (using the lower caliper mounting hole) to the upper anchor plate mounting hole. You'll need a 8mm x 50mm or 5/16" x 2" bolt and nut to do this. Crack the bleeder screw 1/4 turn and attach your bleeder hose and bottle. Why, do you ask? Let the games begin.... See the next step.

5. With your trusty piston rotation tool - Harbor Freight item # 95713 $6 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95713 (or borrow from local parts supplier) you're ready to wrestle the piston back into it's fully retracted position. With a 6" extension between ratchet and tool, use both hands to push the ratchet and extension/tool against the piston while rotating the piston. IMPORTANT - as defined by others, the L side rotates CW and R side CCW. It will take some doing, but it will go! Tighten bleeder screw once piston is back in. Suggestion - no beer breaks until the pistons are in! Then celebrate!

Don't forget to remove, clean and lubricate both caliper pins (slide pins in anchor plate) with silicone grease. NEVER use petroleum based grease due to rubber sleeve on lower pin. It will cause swelling and binding.

The rest is routine.

It seems there is a design issue with these calipers. I've never had to wrestle with a caliper piston like this before. Also, once I pumped up the brakes and bled the system, the pads were stuck to the rotors for a few seconds after releasing the pedal. BTW - This is a 2007 central Texas vehicle with 21K miles in like new condition.

I did not install pressure gauge on caliper to ensure no residual pressure remained after brake pedal was released. I may do that next time I see the vehicle.

Hope this helps.

tradosaurus
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by tradosaurus » Sun Mar 28, 2010 12:09 pm

snowshovel wrote:Hi, Imperial Death Star and WGRoper, The problem solved! Just like what you guys suggested, the pins need to be cleaned and regreased. Don't know why the manual forbids the removal of the pins.

Because of this problem, I touched the front/rear discs many times whenever stoped driving. It seems the rear discs are easier to build-up and drop temperature than the front discs (The temp. of rear discs is higher right after driving and lower a few mins later). I guess this is because the rear discs are much thinner than the front discs (heat capacity is low). Anyway, I smell nothing now. :-P

You guys helped me a lot! Still need to get the fuel filter and tires replaced. Dealer gave me a $600+ quote for the rear brake ($44X.XX) and fuel filter services ($165). Now, I'm more confident to DIY the fuel filter. I'll search in this forum first---this is a lesson. Thanks again.
Wow! $165 for fuel filter service? I think it took me all of 5 minutes to replace the fuel filter on my Freestyle.

I would stay away from that stealership!
1 Tim 2:11 Let the woman learn in silence, with all subjection

nburd
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures-Fuel filter

Post by nburd » Mon Mar 29, 2010 8:56 am

I paid $70.00 or so at my local Ford dealer for the fuel filter swap. P & L.

It's amazing how some dealers, that we trust and buy from, are not honest or rape the customer.
Norm
2007 Freestyle SEL
2013 Ram 1500 5.7 Express Quad
2000 Corvette Convertible

veeight
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Location: New Bern, NC, USA

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures-Fuel filter

Post by veeight » Mon Mar 29, 2010 2:42 pm

nburd wrote:I paid $70.00 or so at my local Ford dealer for the fuel filter swap. P & L.

It's amazing how some dealers, that we trust and buy from, are not honest or rape the customer.
Are you saying that paying $70 for a fuel filter replacement is a good deal?

'Cause in my book, that is robbery.
2005 Ford Freestyle Limited FWD, Fully Loaded, 178k Miles. Wife's daily driver. My other cars are Mustangs.

KAH
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by KAH » Mon Mar 29, 2010 5:17 pm

Not every person has the time, ability, place to work,
even interest to do their own maintenance.

But for those who have the confidence to try, the pay
back is usually well worth the efforts.

The Ford Freestyle fuel filter can be changed very easily.

The necessary tool will cost less than eight dollars, and
the new fuel filter around eight dollars.

I would advise anyone to at least give it a try.

You might just surprise yourself.

Ken H.

CrashNburn
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by CrashNburn » Mon Mar 29, 2010 6:39 pm

KAH wrote:Not every person has the time, ability, place to work,
even interest to do their own maintenance.

But for those who have the confidence to try, the pay
back is usually well worth the efforts.

The Ford Freestyle fuel filter can be changed very easily.

The necessary tool will cost less than eight dollars, and
the new fuel filter around eight dollars.

I would advise anyone to at least give it a try.

You might just surprise yourself.

Ken H.

i fix vehicles on a regular basis, and when im doing cash jobs i usually like showing the person how to change their own oil, and do their own brake pads etc. if you can swap out a flat tire, you can change a fuel filter.

as far as oil changes go, i pay to get mine done, because it would only save me $8 to do it myself. and walmart also checks the battery,fills the washer fluid, and test the coolant. lol

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AWdriven
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Location: San Marcos,CA

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by AWdriven » Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:00 pm

Good guess, It was $400 when I had this done to my Freestyle 2 months ago..

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american.tuscani
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by american.tuscani » Mon Apr 12, 2010 3:29 pm

how has any of the previous several posts have anything to do with brakes? Lets not hijack the thread so others can get to the meat of what they were looking for: BRAKES :evil:

tradosaurus
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by tradosaurus » Tue Apr 13, 2010 8:19 pm

CrashNburn wrote:
KAH wrote:Not every person has the time, ability, place to work,
even interest to do their own maintenance.

But for those who have the confidence to try, the pay
back is usually well worth the efforts.

The Ford Freestyle fuel filter can be changed very easily.

The necessary tool will cost less than eight dollars, and
the new fuel filter around eight dollars.

I would advise anyone to at least give it a try.

You might just surprise yourself.

Ken H.

i fix vehicles on a regular basis, and when im doing cash jobs i usually like showing the person how to change their own oil, and do their own brake pads etc. if you can swap out a flat tire, you can change a fuel filter.

as far as oil changes go, i pay to get mine done, because it would only save me $8 to do it myself. and walmart also checks the battery,fills the washer fluid, and test the coolant. lol
I wouldn't let anyone change my oil unless I was physically incapable of doing it. I don't trust anyone to put the right amount, the right type, or screw the drain plug all the way back. Too many horror stories of teenage mechanics forgetting to put the drain plug all the way (my nephew comes to mind).
1 Tim 2:11 Let the woman learn in silence, with all subjection

copro
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by copro » Tue Apr 13, 2010 8:40 pm

I just did my rear brakes (had rotors turned and replaced pads), went pretty well (thanks for the info) until I went for a drive. It sounds as is both sides have a fairly load clunking/popping noise coming from the brakes when applied. Any ideas???

Thanks

TANGOJETTA
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Location: MN

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by TANGOJETTA » Wed Jun 02, 2010 11:39 am

Did the fronts last night, went alot easier than the backs. My rotors were starting to wrap a little bit at 96,000 miles, so I replace the rotors and pads. Totals part cost $170.00 for Raybestos Advance Tech pads and rotors (including shipping and tax)
2006 AWD LTD with everything except the sunroof.

budmelon
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Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 9:26 pm

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by budmelon » Mon Jun 07, 2010 7:00 am

Just want to say THANKS!!!! Did my rear brake pads this weekend and without this website and this sticky, it would cost me about $200 - $300.

The only problem I have was turning the piston in...what a PITA but I was able to device some leverage device while I was turning the pistion and in no time, it went in.

smithmw
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Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:00 pm

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by smithmw » Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:01 pm

Replaced my rear brakes and rotors yesterday using this write-up and thread. Everything went well. Thanks!
- Matt
2005 Freestyle SEL Plymouth, MI

MRKRIS
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by MRKRIS » Sat Jul 24, 2010 1:01 pm

I just replaced my rear brake pads -they were metal on metal.

_The key_ to this whole process is knowing that you need to apply pressure and rotate the piston in the calipers to get them to return. I used a c-clamps and a channel locks. It also helps to have an extra set of hands to do this.

The rear pads went fast -only 22k on my 2006 freestyle. They must have used some really cheap pads when they built these cars.

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