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Brake job Write-up and pictures

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snowshovel
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by snowshovel » Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:14 pm

Imperial Death Star,

I met a problem when trying to remove the caliper assembly from the rotor as the manual suggests this is a "must". I loosened (but not removed) the 2 13mm bolts from caliper and removed the 2 15mm bolts from caliper anchor plate. However, the caliper assembly is very sticky on the rotor. I put the wheel back on to rotate the rotor. It seemed the rotor can rotate freely. Then, I removed the wheel, tried again but failed again. Maybe I need a rubber mallet to hit the assembly out? Or, I need to pry somewhere?

Manual said, "Remove the 2 brake caliper anchor plate bolts and discard. Position the brake caliper anchor plate, brake caliper, and brake pads aside."

Many thanks

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Imperial Death Star
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:47 pm

Remove first the 2 bolts fully from the caliper only. Then use a pry bar or large flat head screw driver to pry up and away the caliper. Use the caliper anchor(bracket) as a wedge point to pry up the caliper.

Then remove the 2 15mm bolts to remove the caliper bracket.
you can reuse the bolts with no issues, just put a drop of thread lock on the caliper bracket bolts.
2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

snowshovel
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by snowshovel » Sun Jan 17, 2010 3:36 pm

Hi, Imperial Death Star, thank you so much! I bought a pry bar (See, I really have nothing), a bottle of thread lock fluid and a rubber mallet today. Then, the job was much easier. Just test drove the car. The new pads worked great, and no noise at all. Saved about 300 bucks. Sweet. :-P

Again, thank you very much!!!
Imperial Death Star wrote:Remove first the 2 bolts fully from the caliper only. Then use a pry bar or large flat head screw driver to pry up and away the caliper. Use the caliper anchor(bracket) as a wedge point to pry up the caliper.

Then remove the 2 15mm bolts to remove the caliper bracket.
you can reuse the bolts with no issues, just put a drop of thread lock on the caliper bracket bolts.

snowshovel
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Posts: 16
Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 1:29 pm

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by snowshovel » Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:59 pm

Hello, Imperial Death Star, here comes another issue. I drove my car around 7 miles today. I smelled something burned after parking the vehicle in garage. The rear wheel on the passenger side was very warm and the disc was very hot. I even couldn't put my hand on it. The wheel on the other side is OK although the disc is also warm (but not hot). The front discs were cold. What's the possible reason? Is it because I tightened the wheel nuts or caliper bolts too much?

BTW, I didn't hear any noise and feel any vibration while using the brake. Thanks!
Imperial Death Star wrote:Remove first the 2 bolts fully from the caliper only. Then use a pry bar or large flat head screw driver to pry up and away the caliper. Use the caliper anchor(bracket) as a wedge point to pry up the caliper.

Then remove the 2 15mm bolts to remove the caliper bracket.
you can reuse the bolts with no issues, just put a drop of thread lock on the caliper bracket bolts.

WGRoper
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by WGRoper » Tue Jan 19, 2010 5:46 am

Sounds like you've got a caliper sticking. I had the same issue after a brake job on my FS. I removed the caliper slide pins, cleaned them with brake cleaner and regreased with high temp grease. Problem solved.
05 Freestyle SEL Norsea Blue/Gray

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Imperial Death Star
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Tue Jan 19, 2010 10:01 am

Agree with previous post, Did you regrease the caliper pins before reinserting?
If you look at the first picture on the brae write up , you will need to apply a GOOD amount of high temp grease to the pins and make sure they slide freely in the caliper. If they dont slide freely then use brake cleaner in the hole of the caliper where the pins go to clean out to make them move freely. Let me know your progess and any more help you will need.
2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

snowshovel
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by snowshovel » Tue Jan 19, 2010 3:57 pm

Thank you guys, WGRoper and Imperial Death Star. You guys are right. I didn't clean and regrease the caliper anchor plate pins. I had the manual in front of me when I replaced the pads. There is a note in bold on manual that is step 9,

"Do not remove the anchor plate guide pins. The guide pins are press fit to the brake caliper anchor plate. If the guide pins are damaged a new anchor plate must be installed."

So, I just skipped this step although it's suggested in the original post. I'm a little regret to buy the manual from ebay now. Fortunately, it only costs $50. Otherwise, I'll regret more. :-P

I guess the pins you guys are talking about are the pins named as "anchor plate guide pins" in manual (i.e., the pins are in the basket which holds the pads, not in the caliper which has the piston), right? I'll buy the grease tomorrow. Any tools needed for removing the pins?

Learn a lot from this forum. W/ you guys help, the job is not boring at all. Actually, a lot of fun. Just don't know why the manual is so misleading.

WGRoper
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by WGRoper » Wed Jan 20, 2010 6:08 am

I believe it's the caliper bolts that the caliper slides on, that's what I cleaned up and greased with high temp synthetic grease. I could be wrong, I've slept since then :D

Either way, guide pins or caliper bolts, whatever part the caliper slides on that's covered by a small rubber boot, that's the part that needs attention. Don't grease the threads of the bolt, just the surface that the caliper slides on.
05 Freestyle SEL Norsea Blue/Gray

snowshovel
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by snowshovel » Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:00 pm

Thank you, WGRoper. Just cleaned and regreased the pins. Drove the car only about 3 mins as it's too late now. Everything seemed fine. The rear discs were no longer hot.

BTW, the two guide pins are different. The round end pin (see the pic in Imperial Death Star's original post) is the upper pin for each side. Even after greasing, I felt the bottom pin was not that free to move as the upper pin for both sides. I suppose this is normal as the end is not that smooth as the upper one. I'll update this post a few days later no matter if the problem is gone.
WGRoper wrote:I believe it's the caliper bolts that the caliper slides on, that's what I cleaned up and greased with high temp synthetic grease. I could be wrong, I've slept since then :D

Either way, guide pins or caliper bolts, whatever part the caliper slides on that's covered by a small rubber boot, that's the part that needs attention. Don't grease the threads of the bolt, just the surface that the caliper slides on.

CrashNburn
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by CrashNburn » Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:49 pm

im getting the brake noise from my 07, just started yesterday. will be bringing it into the shop this weekend to regrease all the calipers. i was going to do it when i swapped out my summer tires, but the brakes look in great shape. oh well. guess im pullin tires off again this weekend. i usually use silver anti-sieze on parts like the pins, and sliders, and the back of the pads. its extremely high heat tollerant.

and repairing the exhaust on a mazda,..... and replacing the electric transfercase actuator motor on a ford sporttrac... damn im a nice guy eh...... lol

snowshovel
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by snowshovel » Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:39 pm

Hi, Imperial Death Star and WGRoper, The problem solved! Just like what you guys suggested, the pins need to be cleaned and regreased. Don't know why the manual forbids the removal of the pins.

Because of this problem, I touched the front/rear discs many times whenever stoped driving. It seems the rear discs are easier to build-up and drop temperature than the front discs (The temp. of rear discs is higher right after driving and lower a few mins later). I guess this is because the rear discs are much thinner than the front discs (heat capacity is low). Anyway, I smell nothing now. :-P

You guys helped me a lot! Still need to get the fuel filter and tires replaced. Dealer gave me a $600+ quote for the rear brake ($44X.XX) and fuel filter services ($165). Now, I'm more confident to DIY the fuel filter. I'll search in this forum first---this is a lesson. Thanks again.

dewayne1026
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by dewayne1026 » Sat Jan 30, 2010 9:49 pm

Hello Imperial Death Star,

I have been up since 6 am, working on my '07 freestyle. I changed the oil and attempted to replace my rear brakes. This is the second time go around for me. My Freestyle started making that infamous grinding noise, coming from rear passenger tire. I tried to do the work myself and became frustrated with the calipers. I didn't know that I needed a special tool to perform the task.

Thanks for that information!

Well after reading all of the posts today, I gathered all the necessary tools. And I still can't seem to get the calipers to go down. I turned and turned (in the direction of the arrow, towards the rear of the Vehicle), applied pressure and nothing happened (I think it went up instead). Do I need the tool from Harbor Freight to finish the job?

Also I have another problem removing the rotor. I picked up the retaining screw bit (t-40 torx socket) and the screw still want move. Penetrating catalyst spay did not help either.
I have almost stripped the screw trying to get it out.


When I couldn't fix the brakes (the last time the grinding noise sounded), I took my vehicle Good year and they KILLED MY POCKET (Just in Labor). So I need to learn how to do it myself this time.
Can you or anyone HELP?

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Imperial Death Star
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Sat Jan 30, 2010 10:36 pm

You could go to Sear's and get the screw removal tool bit to remove the Torx screw or do what I did on noe side , use a drill bit about the size if the screw and drill out the head of the screw. This will allow you to remove the rotor and then use a locking pliers to take out(unscrew) the rest of the Torx screw.I actually didnt put that torx screw back. So it will be OK to leave it out , if you want, you can get the Torx Screw at the dealer next time ,if you feel you need it.

As for the caliper , try turning twice the other direction then use a good amount of hand force to rotate the caliper back into the piston, going the needed direction.

Hope everything goes well, good Luck
2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

Jim Smyth
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Jim Smyth » Fri Feb 12, 2010 10:21 am

Very good thread. I wish I would have read this first. :mrgreen:

CrashNburn
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by CrashNburn » Fri Feb 12, 2010 8:47 pm

those screws in the rotors are only used during assembly. not required after the wheels are put on.

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