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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 7:31 am
by knowitall
Just finished changing the rear rotors and pads on the Freestyle yesterday. A couple of notes:
1) As mentioned on the 1st page, the slide pins are different on each caliper. The top pin is smooth and the bottom pin has grooves. I don't know the reason but I put it back in the same order.
2) My rear pads were worn more on one side of the rotor than the other and worn differently between the driver and passenger wheel. I attribute that to the slide pins needing lubed.
3) Using the brake compression rental tool from O'Reillys the piston was difficult to turn and compress for some reason. I can't imagine doing this job with the "cube" or channel locks and c-clamp.
4) I used a pneumatic brake bleeder I bought from Harbor Freight that made bleeding all 4 wheels easy as pie. https://youtu.be/wDSyZNDOjnY. $30.
5) I bought the rotors (Prime Choice Auto Parts R64127) on Amazon for $22 each and free shipping. This is the cheapest price I found anywhere. I also got 2 day shipping using Prime.
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Rear_Brake_A_resized.jpg (73.95 KiB) Viewed 1887 times
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Rear_Brake_B_resized.jpg (48.04 KiB) Viewed 1887 times
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Rear_Brake_C_resized.jpg (55.36 KiB) Viewed 1887 times

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 8:56 am
by mmsstar
Good info!

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 9:57 pm
by gramps50
I thought that with disk brakes you were suppose to forch kit from e the air out through the master cylinder by adding the new fluid through the caliber.

The kit from Harbor Freight sure made it a one person job.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 5:36 am
by Africa_FS_07
Re: your PM.

er. half-good info...not step by step info, and meager pics.

but, hey, congrats mr knowitall......its taken years, but you're getting there, as slowly as an Archatinoidea.

Image

thanks.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 10:07 am
by knowitall
Africa_FS_07 wrote:Re: your PM.

er. half-good info...not step by step info, and meager pics.

but, hey, congrats mr knowitall......its taken years, but you're getting there, as slowly as an Archatinoidea.

thanks.
Are you imagining private conversations that haven't taken place?
Have you stopped taking your medications? :shock:
You know that your doctor chastized you last time.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Tue May 05, 2015 4:31 am
by Africa_FS_07
knowitall wrote:
Africa_FS_07 wrote:Re: your PM.

er. half-good info...not step by step info, and meager pics.

but, hey, congrats mr knowitall......its taken years, but you're getting there, as slowly as an Archatinoidea.

thanks.
Are you imagining private conversations that haven't taken place?
Have you stopped taking your medications? :shock:
You know that your doctor chastized you last time.
alas, i wouldst gladly post your last odd PM, but the webmaster said "no no".

i will though if you can get his consent.

i don't have any condition, so no medication.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 3:53 pm
by Tinytim012
Hey guys,

I have a 2007 Ford Freestyle. I'm trying to replace the brake pads but I can't get the caliper off of the mounting bracket because the caliper is locked to the rotor. This is on the rear driver's side. The parking brake isn't on. Is there a trick to getting the caliper off?

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:29 pm
by cjs07office
Thanks for this post it saved me a lot of headache!

I bought one of the square multi tip cube tools. I must be a 6ft 2in 240lbs whimp because I could not get the piston to twist in! Yes I was turning it the direction of the arrow. :shock:

So I went to harbor freight and purchased disc brake pad and caliper tool set. I didn't want to spend the $50 but after hour and half of fighting the piston I was ready to buy the set. Once I put tool to the piston it was compressed within a couple of minutes. When I did the driver rear it took me approx to do the whole job including changing the rotors. 8)

Thanks again for this post it was a life saver!!!!

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 10:47 am
by tidquist
Did the front and rear brakes (new pads, turned the rotors) over the past weekend. First time I ever did brakes on any vehicle. Fronts were pretty easy. The rears were not fun. I should have checked into the availability of the caliper tool set locally before I planned to do the work. HF no longer seems to have a kit with clamps that will turn clockwise and counter clockwise. No local parts stores had them either They exist online, but I wanted to get started right away. So I used the cube tool. After fighting with the rears on both sides and lots of internet searches, these two things seemed to do the trick (both of which I saw suggested here or on other websites). 1. I bolted the caliper to the car at one of the holes where the bracket that holds the pads attaches. Once the darn thing was bolted to the car with a long bolt, nuts and washers, I could put all my 300+ pounds of fat and gristle into it and push with all my might. (Pic attached) 2. Even with all the pushing and bolting the caliper on the car, it didn't start to really retract until I turned each caliper about 1 turn the 'wrong' way and then pushed and turned in the direction of the arrow.

If I ever get to do the rear brakes on this thing again, I am ordering a tool kit that will press and turn the caliper pistons! The last brake job lasted about 80K, the car has 207K on it so if I'm doing pads and rotors at 287K (or even 267K) I'll be pretty happy.

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 12:43 pm
by dwighte
I like the idea of using a bolt to hold the caliper. A great idea.
The tool I borrowed from O'Reilly was a one way one. It was a pain but worked using three hands. I may just invest in the Harbor Freight one. If I'd used the bolt trick it would have been easier with two wrenches.
I thought I'd add a little here about why you even need to deal with this.
This screw is there to self adjust the parking brake. If the parking brake travels too far, it has a screw post and ratchet inside of the cylinder. Disk brakes don't usually need such as they retract a little when the pressure is released. Since you'd be going against the ratchet, you need to turn the piston on the threaded post that the parking brake advances over wear.
One other thing about disk brakes. If the the car brakes smoothly without jerking because it is shape, it is not necessary to have the rotors turned ( may shops do it if you need it or not ). If you do turn on side, do turn the other as well. Even if there are grooves in the disk, it may not need turning. I had one car that a rock got caught in caliper. It cut about an 1/16 inch groove on an otherwise fine rotor. I put new pads on it and tested is on wet pavement. Both sided locked at almost the same time. The wear was the same as well when changing pad.
Torque wheel bolts evenly to avoid warping the rotor. Don't allow anyone to use an air tool to install lug nuts ( with or without a torque limiter ). Get them all snug and sequence them up with a torque wrench. Don't over tighten either. A lot of people are embarrassed to have their right rear wheel pass them on the highway, only to find broken studs left in the axle.
Dwight