If you shop at Amazon.com (for anything), use this link to support MyFordFreestyle.com!

Brake job Write-up and pictures

veeight
Regular Member
Posts: 58
Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2006 6:51 am
Location: New Bern, NC, USA

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by veeight » Sat Feb 05, 2011 6:47 am

tradosaurus wrote:Great write up.

I rented the smaller tool set from O'Reillys (free) and was able to do both sides fairly easy.
...
That is similar to the free tool rental that Advance Auto offers in my area that can only do one side. It is not the correct tool for the job. When I asked the folks at Advance if their rental tool turned both CW and CCW, they all just looked at me like I was insane. I don't think they believed that my car had brakes that required both rotations.

The tool set from Harbor Freight was around $40 and well worth it. I have two vehicles I can use it on and I don't have to rely on an auto shop to do it for me for much more than $40 a trip.

I didn't have to make the wrong tool fit, use a helper, jury rig a tool, make my own tool, bust any knuckles or have to cuss repeatedly to get the job done and I know that when this job comes around again, I can tackle it with confidence.
2005 Ford Freestyle Limited FWD, Fully Loaded, 178k Miles. Wife's daily driver. My other cars are Mustangs.

tradosaurus
Regular Member
Posts: 165
Joined: Thu Aug 09, 2007 7:55 pm
Contact:

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by tradosaurus » Sat Feb 05, 2011 9:42 am

veeight wrote:
tradosaurus wrote:Great write up.

I rented the smaller tool set from O'Reillys (free) and was able to do both sides fairly easy.
...
That is similar to the free tool rental that Advance Auto offers in my area that can only do one side. It is not the correct tool for the job. When I asked the folks at Advance if their rental tool turned both CW and CCW, they all just looked at me like I was insane. I don't think they believed that my car had brakes that required both rotations.

The tool set from Harbor Freight was around $40 and well worth it. I have two vehicles I can use it on and I don't have to rely on an auto shop to do it for me for much more than $40 a trip.

I didn't have to make the wrong tool fit, use a helper, jury rig a tool, make my own tool, bust any knuckles or have to cuss repeatedly to get the job done and I know that when this job comes around again, I can tackle it with confidence.
What a coincidence. Neither did I! :lol:

That's great you have two vehicles to use it on. Sounds like you will get your moneys worth.
1 Tim 2:11 Let the woman learn in silence, with all subjection

MHHPartner
New Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:49 am

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by MHHPartner » Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:37 am

I know the front OEM pads came with adhesive gluing them to the pistons, but haven't seen anything about using adhesive on the replacement pads.

The online instructions say to compress the brake pedal after installing the new pads to bind them to the piston before the chance of contamination, but there is never any mention of applying any adhesive to do the "binding".

Am I missing something?

User avatar
Imperial Death Star
Regular Member
Posts: 457
Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 10:41 am
Location: New York

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Sun Feb 20, 2011 9:07 am

not necessary, I use the old pads to compress piston back in and put the adhesive on the back of the new pad. The pad binding with happen when you press the brake pedal a couple of times after the install, because you need to fit the pistons into position anyway.

Remember the Ford manuals are written by engineers and are not always precise and complete.
2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

doefleming
New Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Feb 20, 2011 10:34 am

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by doefleming » Sun Feb 20, 2011 10:46 am

Rear passenger side caliper - rotate counterclock wise and use box wrench. We rented a caliper tool from autozone but after a few counter clockwise turns you have to re-tighten the tool. Long and tedious process, we got it done. Replacing the brakes is not a pain, just figuring out how what's up with the caliper was the real job.

BTW, I'm a lady and my daughter and I just replaced my rear brakes.

MHHPartner
New Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:49 am

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by MHHPartner » Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:43 am

Is it absolutely necessary to use adhesive on the front pads? If so, what type of adhesive do you use?

User avatar
Imperial Death Star
Regular Member
Posts: 457
Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 10:41 am
Location: New York

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:34 am

The adhesive helps prevent vibration of the pad, vibration can cause squealing of the brake pad. You just need alittle to apply to pads, they sell them at auto parts stores for $.0.79 looks like a sample size of neosporin.
2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

Huachipato
Regular Member
Posts: 83
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:43 am

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Huachipato » Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:22 am

Should have looked up this thread before I started the brake job. I must have put 15 turns on the rear caliper, and did not notice any compression. I now know that there is an arrow I need to seek out and as well as knowing that there will be about a 100 turns to go. Part of this that doesn't make sense to me is that the brake pad has a pin that doesn't allow the caliper rotor thing to turn - so I wonder how it compresses without spinning?

Anyways - also wanted to mention that the rent a tool at AutoZone has a tool that allowes for a bit to be connected to it. I think this is cool because it will allow me to use my drill to compress the caliper. Either direction is fine - as I can reverse the drill rotation. :-)

Thanks for all the good information.
'04 Cobra
'07 Freestyle LTD AWD - 102.5K Miles

Huachipato
Regular Member
Posts: 83
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:43 am

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Huachipato » Sun Jun 12, 2011 2:35 pm

I have to add a little discovery I had. The number of turns you need to do on the rear wheel caliper is very much dependant on the amount of pressure you are applying as you turn the caliper. I had the drill on it, and just spun and spun with no compression whatsoever. I changed my plan, and applied a lot of pressure, and within about 10 turns I had the caliper fully compressed.
'04 Cobra
'07 Freestyle LTD AWD - 102.5K Miles

ellstrom
New Member
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2011 7:22 am

Torn dust boot

Post by ellstrom » Mon Jul 04, 2011 7:38 am

I am really glad there are forums like this, or I never would have figured out how to turn the calipers back in on my Ford. Without a special tool available at 11 p.m. on a Saturday night, however, I wound up using vise grips. On the second side I did (right side), I got smart and pulled the dust boot down out of the way. On the first side I turned, however, I managed to snag and tear the dust boot.

I reassembled the brake and it works fine for the moment. How long can I operate the vehicle before needing to replace either the caliper assembly or the dust boot?

Also, is it possible to replace only the dust boot?

As for applying pressure WHILE turning, I wish I had understood that better. I used a simple compression tool that can be used on front calipers AFTER every twenty turns or so. The piston would depress a depressingly small amount. I literally believe it took hundreds of turns to fully depress the piston that way. Given the awkwardness of trying to use vise grips, it also took a very long time.

User avatar
Imperial Death Star
Regular Member
Posts: 457
Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 10:41 am
Location: New York

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:17 am

Also, is it possible to replace only the dust boot?
You can replace the dust boot , but that will require complete dissassembly of the brake caliper.Which means removal from the car. The dust boot prevents dirt from entering and also a small amount of brake fluid from leaking out. Seals in the caliper will prevent the fluid from flowing out but the dirt and dust will start to work wear into the seals and that is when failure occurs.

I suggest just getting a rebuilt caliper and install. If you don't have a brake bleeder or have NOT done it before ,let a mechanic tackle it . Good Luck!
2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

User avatar
Imperial Death Star
Regular Member
Posts: 457
Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 10:41 am
Location: New York

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Fri Oct 21, 2011 9:02 pm

2 1/2 years after this write up , I have to say to everyone that I do recommend the rear disc brake hardware kit for the rear caliper pins and pads. I replaced All my pads today with 1/2" left on the fronts and 1/4" left on the rear.One rear driver's side caliper bolt was seized (one with rubber sleeve on it) and caused a uneven wear on the inner pad. I replaced all hardware this time and hope this won't happen next time. Hope this helps others in the future, Good luck !
2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

painterdoug
New Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 7:44 pm

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by painterdoug » Sat Oct 22, 2011 8:08 pm

Thanks for the info , I'm doing front brakes next weekend, rears to follow soon, have the same rotors as the one fellow pictured, got on ebay for 170 with pads for both sides , hopwe they help.
Anyone have any info on doing struts on the front?:

Thanks
Doug

2005headache
New Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2011 1:37 pm

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by 2005headache » Thu Oct 27, 2011 1:50 pm

How do you remove the [arking brake from the calipers in a 2005 Ford Freestyle?

I assume it is the same as the other models...

THANKS!!!

User avatar
monte
Regular Member
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 9:41 am

Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by monte » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:56 am

I just replaced the rear brakes and rotors on my 2006 Freestyle..my first rear brake job. It was a real pain compressing those pistons back using the cube tool. I found it helpful to compress the piston--just a mm or so-- before turning and compressing by hand. It took a heck of a lot of axial force while turning by hand in order to get it to compress. I would definitely recommend the Harbor Freight tool.

I also had to drill out the torx screw on one side, and both rotors were rusted on to the axle requiring a bunch of force to get them off.

Was nice to save a couple hundred dollars....have to save what I can for those Christmas presents!

Thank you for those that contributed to this post.
Monte
2006 Ford Freestyle

Post Reply