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Brake job Write-up and pictures

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Imperial Death Star
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Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Thu May 14, 2009 9:33 pm

Did my Brakes today,was good but, I ran into 1 problem. For some stupid reason,Ford put thread lock on the rotor retaining screws. WHY? I had to drill out the left rear retaining screw to remove the rotor, but I got it out.

Here is quick write up on the brake job.

Tools need :
1/2 socket, 15mm socket, 1/2 open-end wrench, 15mm open-end wrench, rubber mallet, t-40 torx socket(rotor removal only), Thread lock, caliper grease,rear brake needs special tool and C-clamp

Front Brakes:
Loosen lug nuts on vehicle. Jack the ends up and support with jack stands, remove wheel and place aside. Remove 2 caliper bolts with 1/2" open-end wrench. Pry up caliper and remove brake pads. Flip caliper over and place 1 old pad onto caliper slot and use C-clamp to reinsert(push) caliper piston back into slot.Secure caliper wth bungie cord , do not let caliper hang on brake line!
Remove caliper pins on brake caliper carriage and regrease ,check rubber boots for damage. At this point ,if you are just replacing pads only ,insert new pads and metal clips and replace caliper onto carriage, Thread lock 1/2" bolts and tighten.

To replace rotors you will need to remove the 2 Brake Carriage bolts (15mm bolts) with 15mm open-end wrench,
remove retaining screw from rotor and remove rotor.Replace with new or newly cut rotors.

Rear Brakes.
Remove (2) 15mm caliper bolts from caliper guide pins.Flip caliper and find arrow indicator on caliper to turn piston back into position( see pictures) Special tool need for turning piston back in.Remove caliper pins on brake caliper carriage and regrease ,check rubber boots for damage. At this point ,if you are just replacing pads only ,insert new pads and metal clips and replace caliper onto carriage, Thread lock 15mm bolts and tighten.

To replace rotors you will need to remove the 2 Brake Carriage bolts (15mm bolts) with 15mm open-end wrench
remove retaining screw from rotor and remove rotor.Replace with new or newly cut rotors.

Please note , in the picture below of the rear caliper guide pins. They were different from each other, I replaced same as removed .Dont know if they are specific , but didnt take a chance. Any body know why they are different?
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2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Webmaster » Sat May 16, 2009 8:34 pm

Thanks, I'll make the post a "sticky" post.

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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by KAH » Sun May 17, 2009 10:29 am

Flip caliper and find arrow indicator on caliper to turn piston back into position( see pictures) Special tool need for turning piston back in.



This is a great write up and most certainly answers a number
of questions I have. Thank you, you done well.

In reagard to the turning of the rear piston back into position, I would like to ask:
Do the pistons on either side turn back in in the same direction or is there a direction difference ?
About how many turns does it take to turn in the pistons and when do you know you have turned enough ?
I assume you turn till you get to the corresponding arrow.
Could you turn it in too far ?
And finally, how tough is it to turn these pistons in ?

You have a great write up and I would again like to thank you for a job well done.

Ken H.

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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Sun May 17, 2009 11:28 am

After flipping to see the arrow, It is turned towards the rear of the vehicle on each side of the vehicle. It does take quite a bit of turning to recess the piston back in. I pushed inward and turned at the same time.I didnt count how many tuns , but did notice each side was different in the effect to turn it back in.
2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by jas88 » Tue May 19, 2009 7:04 am

I am confused about what the arrow is for - if it takes "quite a few turns" to get it in, then wouldn't you tighten until the piston is all the way in? During the "quite a few turns" you are going to pass the arrow several times, how do you know when to stop? Do you go all the way in until it stops and then back up to align with the arrow?
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Tue May 19, 2009 10:55 am

The "Arrow" is the direction to turn the piston back in,Each side has a different direction. If you turn the wrong way , you can damage or dislodge the piston from track.You only need to turn the piston back into a position to be able to replace "new" pads into the system. You can turn until you are flush with the caliper "boot " edge. But after you replace all brake parts , you will need to pump the brake pedal a couple of times to set the piston against the pads, so either way you just need to clear enough space for the "new" brake pads and rotor.
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2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by tradosaurus » Mon Jun 01, 2009 10:50 am

You will also need to make sure to take some brake fluid out of the brake master cylinder (in the engine compartment) (I use a turkey baster) before compressing the piston back into slot or the brake fluid could overflow into your engine compartment.

Also putting some rags under the master brake cylinder would be good.
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by american.tuscani » Mon Jun 01, 2009 2:38 pm

Looks like you can simply use a caliper depressor bought at an autoparts store for cheap. It wedges between the caliper piston and that iron piece. Then simply screw it until it the piston is in. All the while, making sure the brake fluid is not pouring out from the master cylinder. Opening the cap makes it easier to depress the piston. I will be putting on a "Big Brake" kit with the vented discs soon and I will take pix as I do it. i have never seen that block looking thing you have attached to the ratchet. I always used this:
<br>
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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Mon Jun 01, 2009 3:21 pm

Be WARNED , DO NOT USE the basic caliper tool to depress REAR brake calipers! THEY MUST be compressed with the special tool and TURNED into position.

You can use the basic caliper tool as posted above in previous posted picture for the front brakes only! Or you can use a C-clamp.
I never had a problem with brake fluid over flowing! ???
BIG Brakes !! Gotta see the, when your done. please post !! :P
2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by american.tuscani » Mon Jun 01, 2009 5:51 pm

what do you mean by "turning"? What is the function of that square tool? To answer the comment of "overflow", I mean that when you depress the piston, the fluid in the lines will have to go somewhere, and they all lead back to the master cylinder. If it was full of fluid already, the fluid will be displaced by the pushing in of the piston. If it wasn't completely full, then you had some room to play with. This is the case on ALL of the disc brakes I have ever done. That's the way they are designed. Older brakes used to have the problem of depressing the piston and then you would get air in the lines and have to bleed them after you were done. In light of that, I know the FS has been different somewhat when it comes to maintenance in contrast to other cars so I would believe you saying there is another way to do the rear. Even the tranny fluid change is different. How much does that device cost I see that your ratchet is using? Here is the discs I am buying plus ceramic pads:

http://images.marketplaceadvisor.channe ... -42077.jpg

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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Wed Jun 03, 2009 7:41 pm

The Brakes on the Freestyle are made by Bosch. They require you to "turn" the brake piston back in, The piston itself is "threaded" If you use the the tool your talking about, you will break the threads on the caliper(requiring replacement). The "Turn" is specific to the side you are working on, the caliper has an "arrow indicator"(as seen in the photo below)I enhanced the arrow area to show the area to look . the tool allows you to insert it into the grooves in the piston and "turn" it back into the caliper(pictured below)


If anyone is interested the front brakes are made by PBR. ALL the Freestyle brakes are euro.
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2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by american.tuscani » Fri Jun 05, 2009 2:37 pm

ah, I see...how much did that tool cost?

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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Fri Jun 05, 2009 7:23 pm

Not quite sure, I have had this tool for many years now. I would say $15-20 or so dollars. i purchased it at my local auto parts store, and has come in useful as it fits many cars.
2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by KAH » Thu Jun 11, 2009 7:33 pm

Imperial Death Star:

Today, I did the rear brakes on our 2007 Freestar. Mileage is 47,400 and rear brake pads are wasted and rotors are shot. Rotors cost $ 47 each and pads were about $ 54 from Autozone. BAsed on your experiences with the rotor set screw, I also bought a 3/8 inch drive T - 40 torx wrench. Bill was $ 170 total.

Biggest problem was getting the two pistons to collapse. Finally, by leaning onto the wrench, I was able to get them both collapsed but it really took a lot longer than I had expected.

Removing the rotor screw was not a problem. I used penetrating oil and they both came out with no problems. New wrench was well worth the price. Both of the back sides of the old rotors were liberally coated with a silver sealant, probably some sort of non stick material.

I turned the pistons with a cube wrench from Harbor Freight. Not bad for $ 5. I bought the fancy pads for this project as I hope not to ever do it again.

My two socket sizes were 13 mm and 15 mm sockets and open end wrenches.

I WISH I HAD A 15 MM RATCHETING BOX WRENCH ON THIS JOB AS IT WOULD HAVE MADE LIFE A LOT SIMPLER WHEN REMOVING THE CALIPER ASSEMBLY.

I really think this job should have been on FORD as having to replace rear disk brakes at this mileage is just plain wrong. But it is over the 36,000 miles/36 month warrantee. I wonder what the dealer would charge for this job ?

Thanks for your great write up. It helped me a lot.

Ken H.

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Re: Brake job Write-up and pictures

Post by Imperial Death Star » Thu Jun 11, 2009 8:51 pm

I WISH I HAD A 15 MM RATCHETING BOX WRENCH ON THIS JOB AS IT WOULD HAVE MADE LIFE A LOT SIMPLER WHEN REMOVING THE CALIPER ASSEMBLY.

yes, I had this tool, it does help! ford is NOT the only car company using the "turn in" piston in the rear. My Audi is also the same, thats why I had this square tool.

Glad this write-up helped you,gotta save every dollar we can now-a-days.

I would say Ford would charge $250 for parts and $200 for labor.
2005 FreeStyle SEL AWD - Red Fire-110,000 miles
2001 BMW 530i (Titanium Silver) 129,000 miles
1998 Volvo V70R-(Vader Black)201,000 miles (retired)

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