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Many trouble codes.....

suziandmikec
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Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:59 pm

Re: TC and ABS lights w/ brake pedal, not starting

Post by suziandmikec » Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:39 pm

I havent driven it yet, but I will go out and start it and let it warm up. The A.C. probably won't kick on because we only got up to the low 20s today. I don't know that it's driveable because the engine doesn't rev but I'll let it idle a while and try again.

suziandmikec
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Posts: 31
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:59 pm

Re: TC and ABS lights w/ brake pedal, not starting

Post by suziandmikec » Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:37 pm

So I started it up and it idled really rough for about the first minute before smoothing out to normal. It ran for about 15 minutes and got up to running temperature and still no revving when I press the gas pedal. Just on a lark, I put the code reader back on it and have P2104 Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Idle. Took it to google and things are getting a little advanced for me, lots of graphing throttle response and whatnot. This is the newest car I've ever owned so I'm learning drive-by-wire and highly computerized stuff as I go.

I did find this other youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDpUo3UPmto and feel like this might be a good direction. I don't recall actually seeing the circuit board when I took it apart but its there, seems like a likely cause to me. Kind of starting to feel like I'm going nowhere and am leaning towards replacing this part but I'm on a budget and am nervous of throwing money at it if there's a possibility its something else.

suziandmikec
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Posts: 31
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:59 pm

Re: TC and ABS lights w/ brake pedal, not starting

Post by suziandmikec » Wed Feb 20, 2019 11:19 pm

I'm having difficulties actually finding anywhere that sells just the plastic cap with the circuit board in it, except for a "generic universal" fit part which is an absolute no for me, never had any luck with parts like that and don't see how that could possibly work on this throttle body. Best deal I can find is advanced auto parts at $167 for an entire throttle body so I'll call my local store in the morning and see if they have it in stock, otherwise I'll mail order it. Fingers crossed that this thing works!

xvert
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Location: Sibiria

Re: TC and ABS lights w/ brake pedal, not starting

Post by xvert » Thu Feb 21, 2019 3:53 am

If you only need the throttle position sensor you can apply 4F9U-9E928-AC (VP4F9U-9E928-AC) from Euro FORD (1684542)
( S-MAX / Galaxy 2006- (CA1) 2.0L DuraTec 16V and 2.3L DuraTec HE
Mondeo 2007- (CA2) 2.0L DuraTec 16V and 2.3L DuraTec HE
Focus & C-MAX 04-08 / Focus C-MAX 03-07 (CAP) 1.8L and 2.0L Duratec 16V
Fiesta / Fusion 2001- (CBK) 2.0L Duratec 16V )
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Posit ... ct=mobile

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jas88
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Re: TC and ABS lights w/ brake pedal, not starting

Post by jas88 » Thu Feb 21, 2019 6:44 am

I think you have a bad battery - have you pulled it out and taken it to be tested?
2006 SE Silver w/Slate cloth

suziandmikec
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Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:59 pm

Re: TC and ABS lights w/ brake pedal, not starting

Post by suziandmikec » Thu Feb 21, 2019 8:34 am

I'll take the battery in to be tested today as well as seeing if I can get a new part. I figured there might be a code return on the throttle body so I was going to take it off this morning and of course one of the bolts rounded out on me.....


suziandmikec
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Posts: 31
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:59 pm

Re: TC and ABS lights w/ brake pedal, not starting

Post by suziandmikec » Thu Feb 21, 2019 2:10 pm

Those are the same videos brad e posted. They were informative but I lack an oscilloscope and stuff. Parts store had to order the throttle body for me (can't really wait for ebay) but luckily the warehouse is only a 2 hour drive and I ordered it early enough it will be here this afternoon.

suziandmikec
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Posts: 31
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:59 pm

Re: TC and ABS lights w/ brake pedal, not starting

Post by suziandmikec » Thu Feb 21, 2019 8:12 pm

Fixed it! Got a reman throttle body with a year warranty (couple hundred bucks cheaper than the others) and put it on. Car fired up and was idling exceptionally bad until I realized I had forgotten to plug in the wiring harness. How it actually started I'll never know... In my haste to shut the car off and plug it in I slipped on ice on my garage floor and popped my shoulder out of its socket when I tried to break my fall, old age sucks. But once I had everything properly plugged in the CEL and wrench lights went out on their own and idle was the best its ever been. Let it warm up for a while and took it for a few miles drive and it feels great.

I also had the parts store test my battery for me and that was all good, I can save that expense for another day.

Huge thanks to everyone who guided me through this project! I have a perverse distaste for paying people to do things I can do on my own and am very grateful for your patience and expertise. This whole thing has been a learning experience for as its the newest car I've ever owned (right behind a 2001 VW Golf and 1999 Jeep Cherokee, everything else has been early 90s\late 80s) so I felt a bit lost when lots of what google was feeding me had expensive software and diagnostic tools and stuff.

edit: updated thread title to more accurately describe the problem and put a brief synopsis of the repair in the original post. I'm all about open source and sharing of information so hopefully another DIY minded person can find this page helpful. Thank you all again so much!

suziandmikec
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Re: [SOLVED]Trouble Codes P2111 and P2104, engine not revving

Post by suziandmikec » Fri Feb 22, 2019 10:55 am

Reopening this thread because it apparently isn't fixed and now I've got EVEN MORE trouble codes....

The car died again this morning and luckily I was only a half mile or so from home and I was able to limp it back. My wife was driving and I was in our borrowed van getting gas, she pulled in and put the car into park and all her interior lights went out and ABS and CEL light came on. I shut the car off, then when I tried to start it the battery was dead which is weird because just yesterday I had the battery tested and it was good.

I put the code reader on and got these codes:
P2104 Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Idle
P0562 System Low Voltage
P0122 Throttle Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0223 Throttle Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit High Input
P2110 Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Limit RPM
P0562 System Low Voltage (again)

I think the low voltage is because of the battery dying suddenly and for a fully charged healthy battery to die like that means to me there is a short somewhere.

The P2104 is a repeat from the previous break down earlier this week that I thought was resolved.

The P0122 and P0223 seem contradictory to me, but I feel like if Sensor B is shorting out it could be robbing power from Sensor A because electricity wants to look for the shortest path to ground.

Right now I'm looking for TSBs on this problem but am willing to try anything anyone here thinks might be a solution.

At the gas station, we jumped the engine to start it and when I pressed the gas pedal the RPMs stayed up after taking my foot off the pedal. While driving it back home it wouldn't shift out of 1st gear. My wife also said that the reverse lights were on the entire time driving home until I put it in park in the garage.

I remember one page I read had a routine to "reprogram" something, basically the guy turned the key to On without starting the engine and slowly pressed the gas pedal all the way down (about 10 seconds) then slowly released it (another 10 seconds). Is this something that actually needs done?

Luckily its a slow day at work and I can do some research, here's what I've got for notes:

P2104
-triggered by abnormal signal from elsewhere
--EGR malfunction
--MAF sensor malfunction
--ABS\TC failure (ABS light was on and had ABS\TC lights earlier this week)
--Abnormal system voltages
--Possibly need to flash PCM

P0562
-associated with voltage regulator inside alternator that controls the charging system
-transmission may not shift
--high resistance between alternator and battery
--high resistance or open between alternator and control module
--failed alternator (kind of been suspecting this for a while because my lights dim when I idle for too long)

P0223
-stuck throttle
--throttle body\actuator motor\throttle position sensor should be replaced together (didn't I just do that?)

P2110
-CEL and ABS lights on
-Transmission not shifting
-Other codes present
--replace\clean ABS sensor
--replace\clean EGR valve
--replace\clean MAF sensor
--flash or replace PCM
-failsafe "limp" mode related to other problems

So from my notes, I've got some common themes here. P2104 and P2110 recommend cleaning or replacing the ABS sensor, EGR valve, and MAF sensor, so that might be a start. Both also recommend flashing the PCM. P2110 and P0562 also say a symptom is transmission not shifting which I did observe.
I think unless anyone thinks otherwise, I might explore the PCM flashing option which I've never done on any vehicle so I need to learn what all is entailed. Seems like maybe the cheapest option which is a concern for me right now.

ver mind, flashing the PCM does not sound cheap.

suziandmikec
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Re: [SOLVED]Trouble Codes P2111 and P2104, engine not revving

Post by suziandmikec » Fri Feb 22, 2019 10:57 am

From the other thread, trying to consolidate this together.
ds32928 wrote:
Fri Feb 22, 2019 10:56 am
I feel for you, if you are in a tight financial place right now. As far as our advice being of any help to you, I think you are overwhelmed with all the advice. No one ever said 10 sec on then 10 sec off, whatever.

Friend, you need to first, get the "dead battery", car wont start, situation solved first. You have to. These latest codes mean nothing if the battery is junk. I know that in good faith you had the battery checked and was told it was good. It might be, BUT something is wrong with the charging, starting, system. Until you get a vehicle that doesnt give you a "dead battery", you cant rely on codes without figuring out that FIRST. Dying battery for whatever reason can throw false codes. Eliminate that possibility first.

Im not trying to insult you, or anything, but getting the charging system problem, whatever it is, straighened out is the first step. Good luck, I hope you can get this done, and save yourself from potentially throwing money at it to replace things that are a false lead.
I'm freaking out a little bit because I'm used to working on older vehicles and I'm on a limited budget and I have rent due on the 28th and this is our only car. The $160 bucks it took to replace the f*****g throttle body kind of overdrafted me but today is pay day so it wasn't such a big deal. Missing rent is a big deal and not being able to drive 23 miles to work is a big deal.

suziandmikec
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Posts: 31
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:59 pm

Re: Many trouble codes.....

Post by suziandmikec » Fri Feb 22, 2019 11:02 am

At this point I'm leaning towards limping the car to a local shop a few miles from my house (live rural) and having them fix it but then I'll have to ask my parents for rent help which is humiliating. I'm 32 years old and shouldn't have to depend on them like that.

suziandmikec
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Posts: 31
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:59 pm

Re: Many trouble codes.....

Post by suziandmikec » Fri Feb 22, 2019 11:05 am

ds32928 wrote:
Fri Feb 22, 2019 10:56 am
No one ever said 10 sec on then 10 sec off, whatever.

Friend, you need to first, get the "dead battery", car wont start, situation solved first. You have to. These latest codes mean nothing if the battery is junk. I know that in good faith you had the battery checked and was told it was good. It might be, BUT something is wrong with the charging, starting, system. Until you get a vehicle that doesnt give you a "dead battery", you cant rely on codes without figuring out that FIRST. Dying battery for whatever reason can throw false codes. Eliminate that possibility first.
That 10 second thing was a youtube video I watched so who knows what the guy was actually doing.

For a while I've suspected the either the alternator or battery as being on the way out because if I idle with accessories (heater, radio, headlights) for too long the headlights start doing the dim-bright-dim-bright thing. Thought that was an alternator symptom so I did the trusty old test of having the engine running and unplugging the battery-car stayed running which tells me bad battery. Buuuut, the parts store tested my battery yesterday and said it was ok. So I'm going in circles on that issue now.

suziandmikec
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Re: Many trouble codes.....

Post by suziandmikec » Fri Feb 22, 2019 11:20 am

I'm a little perplexed because I drove it last night and it ran great, came out this morning to warm it up and it started right away. The drive from our house to the gas station is less than 2 miles, I drove it probably 5-6 miles last night.

suziandmikec
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Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:59 pm

Re: Many trouble codes.....

Post by suziandmikec » Fri Feb 22, 2019 12:00 pm

I think today I'm going to get a battery for it. First reason is its cheaper than an alternator, second and equally important is because I was looking up the alternator replacement procedure for this car and its not nearly as easy as any other vehicle I've done before.

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