2008 Ford Taurus X replacement of driver side blend door act

[lynetted]

The driver side blend door actuator is bad (making a clicking noise when the car is turned on). We can see the part but we can't replace it unless we take the dash apart. Is there a video or step by step instructions on how to remove the dash to replace the part which we found for $21.00 at O'Reilly's
Thanks
Lynette

[baf20prz]

I'm working on that same issue right now (08 TX 125K). Are you replacing the upper one or lower one? Mine is upper so harder to access. If that isn't clear I have the exploded part view and will attach it later. I'm thinking the approach I'm going to try is removing the top storage tray and center dash panel - going bottom up even w/ the panel below steering wheel removed is murder. I hope to have time to tackle this over the weekend, but I'm pretty booked so it might be a while. I will keep you posted if I have success.

[lynetted]

Yes it's the upper one. We were able to get it unplugged and the bottom screw out but was unable to reach the two top screws without taking the dash apart. We purchased the part but that is as far as we got.

[baf20prz]

So I had some time to look into this more over the weekend and I don't see a simple way to do this job without pulling the whole dash. I don't think that is too bad, but I didn't have time to tear all the way in so it will have to wait a little longer. I have some burnt out instrument cluster bulbs to replace as well and I'm think of putting in a steering wheel control box for my JVC head unit while I'm in there since all that will have to be pulled to access the top side of that climate control stack. Oh, joy- as long as it says above freezing it won't be too bad to do.

[baf20prz]

So I took advantage of the good weather Saturday to tackle this project (Panel/Defrost/Floor Mode Door actuator). Took just under 4 hours and really only required a few tools: 7mm, 8mm, and 10mm driver w/ universal and a v-notch tool for plastic panel pins.

Order of operations I used:

Remove
-under steering panel and hood release (9 fasteners)
-instrument cluster and steering shroud (11 fasteners)
-headlamp panel (no fasteners - pulled out of dash and plugged back in behind to turn off chime)
-driver dash side panel (1 fastener)
-center dash storage and radio (6 fasteners)
-glove box and passenger kick panel (5 fasteners)
-passenger dash side panel (1 fastener)
-passenger air outlet (no fastener)
-passenger handle door side fastener (one yellow zinc screw)
-passenger air ducting behind handle (2 fasteners - may not need to do this and note these are self tapping for plastic unlike others)
-airbag electrical connector (one each side)
-airbag mounting bracket (2 fasteners)
-shift bezel (silver plastic)
-center console ( 4 fasteners - only took side screws out but left attached to dash and moved as entire unit)
-driver and pass plastic panels at lower air outlet (no fasteners)
-pulled driver and pass windshield column covers loose but did not remove (no fasteners but have tabs connecting to dash)

Once all that is done the whole dash assembly can be moved out slightly and tipped up to access the actuator through the instrument cluster hole. I used a tape measure between the climate control stack and the ductwork under dash to provide support and an adequate gap to work - I didn't feel like pulling the entire assembly out and there is enough room to do the job short of that.

Then the actuator can be removed (3 fasteners) and new one can be positioned. To get the location correct I plugged the new actuator and climate control panel back in (with knob in same position) and made sure it would actuate to the same position as the old one. Once it was set it can be screwed back in. I then did a confirmation of correct operation before closing up using reverse steps.

I don't think there is any way to do this job bottom up under driver dash side - that thing is buried too deep. The connector can be reached but there is no way to access the upper screws.

See attached photos.

[pwschuh]

Wow, great write-up. Thanks.

[mmsstar]

Wow, does that look like fun!

[eyedontknow]

Took just under 4 hours and really only required a few tools: 7mm, 8mm, and 10mm driver w/ universal and a v-notch tool for plastic panel pins.

Order of operations I used:

Remove
-under steering panel and hood release (9 fasteners)
-instrument cluster and steering shroud (11 fasteners)
-headlamp panel (no fasteners - pulled out of dash and plugged back in behind to turn off chime)
-driver dash side panel (1 fastener)
-center dash storage and radio (6 fasteners)
-glove box and passenger kick panel (5 fasteners)
-passenger dash side panel (1 fastener)
-passenger air outlet (no fastener)
-passenger handle door side fastener (one yellow zinc screw)
-passenger air ducting behind handle (2 fasteners - may not need to do this and note these are self tapping for plastic unlike others)
-airbag electrical connector (one each side)
-airbag mounting bracket (2 fasteners)
-shift bezel (silver plastic)
-center console ( 4 fasteners - only took side screws out but left attached to dash and moved as entire unit)
-driver and pass plastic panels at lower air outlet (no fasteners)
-pulled driver and pass windshield column covers loose but did not remove (no fasteners but have tabs connecting to dash)

Once all that is done the whole dash assembly can be moved out slightly and tipped up to access the actuator through the instrument cluster hole. I used a tape measure between the climate control stack and the ductwork under dash to provide support and an adequate gap to work - I didn't feel like pulling the entire assembly out and there is enough room to do the job short of that.

Then the actuator can be removed (3 fasteners) and new one can be positioned. To get the location correct I plugged the new actuator and climate control panel back in (with knob in same position) and made sure it would actuate to the same position as the old one. Once it was set it can be screwed back in. I then did a confirmation of correct operation before closing up using reverse steps.

I don't think there is any way to do this job bottom up under driver dash side - that thing is buried too deep. The connector can be reached but there is no way to access the upper screws.

See attached photos.

I'm working on this right now with my taurus x. You're write up is great and really helpful, but I'm still a little lost. A few pictures or more details would be great. I've tried looking online, but have been unable to find anything. Can you post a little more about this (or someone else?) or if you have a link to somewhere else pictures or a video are posted I would so appreciate it!

[baf20prz]

All the pics/info is in the post - didn't document every step w/ photos. As a side note, I did this job predicated on the fact I would loose cabin air output from all vents after ~1hr of drive time, and I could hear the servo oscillating and could "lock" it by unplugging. That said, I thought replacing the servo would be the end fix, but as of 2 weeks ago I had the same lost cabin air after 1 hour drive time, but no oscillating from that servo. So there's something else afoot in my HVAC, but I'm not sure I want to spend any more time on it. Up to 2 weeks ago I would've said do the replacement, but I'm not sure it was worth it in my case - your symptoms/issue may be more cut an dried. Have fun if you decide to go in.

[eyedontknow]

THanks for the followup. A little too late to back out now. I've gotten everything taken apart. I'm starting to regret starting this project instead of taking it in. Losing air output after an hour of drive time is not good. Too late now.

I've gotten everything apart, but still can't seem to lift the dash enough to get in there to take out the part I'm after. Any other tips you can provide?

[baf20prz]

The only thing to add is when you are sure everything is loose you have to move the dash back toward the pass compartment before there is any room to go up. I'm talking several inches-maybe more than you'd think. Good luck and I hope you can make it go.

[eyedontknow]

Well, unfortunately no. I gave up.

I really hate to bother you with another question, but I've got it mostly back together when I went to put the radio and center console back in. I have connections for 5 plug-ins, but I ended up with only 4 plugs. Please tell me I'm only supposed to have 4 below the radio.

[mmsstar]

Did you plug the air bag light and the power point in?

[eyedontknow]

Yup, got everything plugged back in and put back together. Thanks for the help.

[madmatt2024]

Am I the only one who managed to do this without taking everything apart?