If you shop at Amazon.com (for anything), use this link to support MyFordFreestyle.com!

$8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

User avatar
piratepress
Regular Member
Posts: 428
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2006 6:50 pm
Location: Gulf Coast

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by piratepress » Sun Jun 09, 2013 1:16 pm

After all the discussion recently, checked the TRR again today and I can see several cracks.

*SIGH*

Guess it's time to start investing some money if we plan on keeping the FS, or trade it in on something new.
2006 Freestyle SE FWD [SOLD] 3-22-06 to 2-3-15
Ford Freestyle Helicopter Club Ex-Presidente

i want a freestyle
New Member
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:45 pm

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by i want a freestyle » Mon Jun 10, 2013 1:31 pm

Has anyone had good results with the o'reiley or napa parts ?.
Please advise.
Thanks

garman
New Member
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Aug 30, 2009 7:18 am

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by garman » Thu Jun 27, 2013 5:25 pm

Did mine tonight...wasn't a lot of fun, but got the job done. :| I used the Rock Auto part. I did not remove the bracket or the bar that it mounts to. I just removed the bolt and moved the bracket out of the way. I chiseled the old one out which took a little while and then pressed the new one in with a bearing puller used in reverse. It is a very tight fit. I had to file around the outside of the new mount a good bit before I could even come close to getting it in the way I was doing it. I an sure it would be much easier to take the whole bracket out and use a press for the removal and installation of the mount, but I did not feel like taking the whole thing apart and driving twenty miles to the shop I have access to.

Anyway, not a big job...but definitely a pain in the butt job!! :lol:

But definitely worth the $$ saved by doing it!! :mrgreen:

presto
New Member
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2013 2:34 pm

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by presto » Sat Jul 06, 2013 2:42 pm

I ordered this part: http://www.onlinewholesaleparts.com/fm01.html
expecting it to be an easy replacement. But I have no idea how to get the old bushing out without completely destroying it, nor how to get the new bushing in.

Any ideas?

mn_montego
Regular Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 1:00 pm

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by mn_montego » Fri Aug 02, 2013 6:56 am

I ordered a similar bushing kit from RockAuto that is made by Dorman. Since the bushing fit is so tight, I ended up taking out the engine mount bracket (details in another thread on the experience,) and found a shop/buddy that had a bushing/bearing press. My kit said at least 3 tons of pressure is needed and after watching the press push out the old bushing and push in the new bushing, it would appear that 3 tons would be the minimum needed. Others have talked about chiseling out the old one and then using C-clamps and boards to push in the new one, I would be concerned that over time this would not be a tight enough fit and it would start to slide.

I originally did the volvo bushing part replacement (which worked great for a while), but in my case the fit was not tight enough; so the bushing started moving around over time and causing additional vibration in the cab of the vehicle.

Anyway, thought I would share my experience with you.........

NHI
New Member
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 2:32 pm

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by NHI » Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:08 pm

We recently took our car ('05 Freestyle) in for the surge issue, and the dealership was kind enough to let us know that their $#!$ torque arm was in need of replacement for some hundreds of dollars. Luckily, google led me here....

I decided to go with the full replacement bushing part (from rockauto.com) rather than leaving part of the old one in place and using the volvo part. It was a few dollars more - $14.66 for the part and $11.78 for shipping - but I felt more comfortable knowing that it was a real match.

I initially tried to just move the upper arm out of the way but decided it was easy enough to remove the strut brace completely during the job.

I found it somewhat difficult to get the old bushing fully out - that thing was in there tight, and I ended up jamming a flat blade screwdriver behind the edge of the metal ring around the bushing and twisting to bend it out (taking the old bushing from being circular to being a slightly smaller pacman-shaped piece that just fell out).

Here are the tools I used to install the part (sorry, can't upload, providing imageshack link instead).
Image
  • 5" C-clamps. I bought 2, but only used 1. In retrospect, I should've bought a 6" as I had to get a bit more creative due to missing 1/2" of clearance that the larger clamp would've provided.
  • Some sort of high-temp lubricant that has fine copper in it, suggested by a guy at auto parts store. I suspect any grease would've done in this case since we don't need it to be lubricated long-term, just something to help it move in.
  • 3" galvanized steel pipe plug. This thing is the perfect size for pushing on the bushing part because it's the same diameter of the outer rim of the bushing and the back end of the bushing will fit right into it from behind
  • 1/2" thick oak that was lying around
Here's a pic of it being pushed in:
Image
It took some cranking to get the part in, but I wouldn't say it was difficult - the screw action of the clamp is perfect for this - and I'm not a buff guy, I sit at my computer all day...

It was only able to move a little further than you see in the picture because the width of the bushing is slightly wider than the bracket which holds it, so it ran into the wood on the left side with probably 3mm still to go.

At that point, I reversed the pipe plug so that it was against the bracket on the left side (with the square plug end at far left - so the cavity of the plug was oriented to the right to accept the bushing as it is pushed farther left) and the wood piece was on the right side of the bushing. If you recall from the tools pic, the wood piece is in set up to span over the middle part of the bushing which sticks out as I didn't want to put a lot of side-stress against it during installation.

Picture of it fully in place:
Image

Dealership estimate: Something over $400 if I recall, about 300 for the part and more for the labor.

DIY: $26 shipped part, $11 clamp, $3 lubricant, $7 pipe plug + 30 minutes wasted before I bought the parts trying to make due with small clamps + 1 hour shopping (I don't live in town - rural!) + maybe 40 minutes once I had the parts + great personal satisfaction at not giving the dealer more money (they tried to charge my wife for the surge fix which Ford has promised to do for free - these guys have always been right bastards).

knowitall
Regular Member
Posts: 1122
Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:12 pm
Location: Texas

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by knowitall » Tue Aug 13, 2013 9:06 am

Where does this fit in to the installation procedures? :lol:
Last edited by knowitall on Thu Jun 26, 2014 4:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

InCoGnIt0
Regular Member
Posts: 117
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2010 2:49 pm
Location: Florida

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by InCoGnIt0 » Tue Aug 13, 2013 11:25 pm

It is posts like this that knowitall does that is not helpful / sarcastic / rude. The reason I stopped visiting the freestyle forums.
Black 2005 Ford Freestyle Limited AWD

knowitall
Regular Member
Posts: 1122
Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:12 pm
Location: Texas

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by knowitall » Wed Aug 14, 2013 9:00 am

InCoGnIt0 wrote:It is posts like this that knowitall does that is not helpful / sarcastic / rude. The reason I stopped visiting the freestyle forums.
Face it! You came here to see Africa's and mine witty bantering. :lol:
:P Your post proves that you do visit the forum. :P

spidy18
Regular Member
Posts: 49
Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 1:57 pm

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by spidy18 » Sun Sep 08, 2013 7:31 am

has any one tried this yet, ebay now has some inserts you put in the roll resister bracket and should be an exact fit. there are 2 kinds than I found
(1) http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2006-2007- ... 9a&vxp=mtr
(2) http://www.ebay.com/itm/FM03-MotorKing- ... 35&vxp=mtr
What does everyone think?

spidy18
Regular Member
Posts: 49
Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 1:57 pm

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by spidy18 » Sun Sep 08, 2013 9:33 am

[quote][I found it somewhat difficult to get the old bushing fully out - that thing was in there tight, and I ended up jamming a flat blade screwdriver behind the edge of the metal ring around the bushing and twisting to bend it out (taking the old bushing from being circular to being a slightly smaller pacman-shaped piece that just fell out)./quote]

You have the right idea, the way i did it when I did a full bushing replacement on my Honda civic is I used a hack saw and did one cut through the metal then used a hammer and flat head and pried it out, if the rubber is still attached you may need a whole saw or torch to get the rubber out, I would assume the same principle would apply for this, but you know what they say when you assume.

rkneeshaw
Regular Member
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Apr 14, 2012 6:25 pm

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by rkneeshaw » Sat Oct 19, 2013 11:32 am

Hi highly recommend the new(er) Dorman part number 917-037

http://dormanproducts.com/p-53505-917-037.aspx

Comes with the bushing, alignment tool, and the spacers for a press (or ball joint press or whatever you're using) to properly press in the bushing without damaging it.

I just completed this repair and the "tools" included with this kit were extremely helpful.

I was changing my spark plugs so I had the intake manifold off, and it was very easy at that point to remove the entire bracket from the vehicle to press out the old bushing and press in the new.

Nice post by INH a couple posts up that shows how you might attempt the replacement while in the vehicle.
2006 Ford Freestyle SEL AWD

fang
Regular Member
Posts: 28
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:11 am
Location: Northern Virginia

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by fang » Fri Jan 31, 2014 10:00 am

My Freestyle is right around 75k in miles, and I had do this a few weeks ago. I am glad this is a proven method because it just seems strange to me. The old part had about 1/2" where the rubber piece could slide. The new way has nothing.

After i had it together, i put the Window Weld around it to keep it from spinning. It has not moved.

I am likely a dummy, but it took me about 1.5 hours just to cut off those flanges. I had an angle grinder too. Maybe I was using the wrong wheel. Who knows?

Ey8s
New Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2014 7:53 am

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by Ey8s » Wed Jun 25, 2014 2:53 pm

i know this an old thread but.... THANKS FOR THE VOLVO PART TIP!!
worked like a charm. They're about $10 now delivered.

mblance
New Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:58 pm

Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by mblance » Mon Jul 14, 2014 3:33 pm

Wish I had seen this sooner I spent two days epoxying in the aluminum piece in, kept adding
epoxy after it dried, great post that is why I joined this site

Post Reply