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$8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

nightflyer
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by nightflyer » Wed Feb 27, 2013 9:48 am

Jaimster wrote:
knowitall wrote:
Jaimster wrote:Purchased the roll resistor from Amazon.com for under 9 bucks (free shipping). Installed it over the wekend after changing the motor oil. Works good as new. Thanks for the cheap fix!
Part number?
I beleive this is a Volvo replacment part.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066R ... eestyle-20
That looks to be the same part from NAPA which would explain the lower price.
2006 FWD Ford Freestyle SEL
2004 Hyundai Sonata 2.7 V6 base

knowitall
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by knowitall » Thu Feb 28, 2013 6:17 am

A review on the roll resistor from Amazon:
"I bought this to do a cheap fix on a Ford Freestyle. According to Ford forums, it is a bushing for another car that supposedly will fit inside the motor mount bracket on the Freestyle. Well, it is too small. The rubber is smaller than the original Ford bushing so it will fail even sooner than the original. Basically, I wasted $12 on it. Instead,, I found a Ford dealer on line who sold me the OEM bracket with the bushing in it for $146. A lot better than the $220 my local dealer wanted. It took a long time to replace it as the one of the bolts is very hard to get at. Took 2hrs to remove it. It went on a lot faster however. Anyway, the rubber on mine had just started to crack and was not totally gone. I decided that the rubber may be deteriorating due to ozone in the air instead of failing due to the movement of the engine. So, I sprayed tire shine liquid on the rubber. I will do this every year and see if that makes it last longer."

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Jaimster
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by Jaimster » Thu Feb 28, 2013 11:48 am

That's odd. It fit perfectly into my bracket. In fact, I had to remove a little bit of the old rubber to get it to fit. I had to use a soft hammer to get it centered into the hole. Maybe this guy removed too much rubber?
2006 Limited, AWD, 109K miles
All options exept nav

QuickLTD
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by QuickLTD » Thu Feb 28, 2013 3:03 pm

I think someone said they tried a urethane bushing. I saw this one on amazon so I thought I would offer it up.

http://www.amazon.com/MTC-Urethane-Torq ... 001G7L7KI/
Dean
2006 Ford Freestyle Limited FWD
2009 Honda Civic EX w/Navi

zimmy
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by zimmy » Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:53 am

Failed my VA inspection due to this mount being broken, didn't think they would pass it with the Volvo fix. I found the insert from O'Reilly's for $33. Pressed it in last night, hoping to hear back from the shop today with good news!

nightflyer
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by nightflyer » Fri Mar 08, 2013 12:19 pm

Question: I'm concerned about the possibility of rotation with the O'Reilly part. Did either of you who used this one put any sealant to keep it in place? If so, what did you use?

I haven't had the time to put it in since I got it between my son fracturing his collar bone, my dad's birthday, and now a horse theft. Depending on whether I need a sealant and how much it costs, I should be able to get it in there this weekend.
2006 FWD Ford Freestyle SEL
2004 Hyundai Sonata 2.7 V6 base

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Fat Steve
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by Fat Steve » Fri Mar 08, 2013 1:42 pm

I'm doing the hockey puck if my Volvo part fails
Steve
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Aokakesu
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by Aokakesu » Sun Mar 10, 2013 2:42 pm

I did the TRR replacement back at 90k km when it was time for a full spark plug replacement. Thank you for the hack that saved my wallet.

One question - Is it normal for the outer collar of non-OEM Volvo TRRs to be made of polycarbon? I'm used to seeing NVH bushings like this having a steel can surrounding the rubber bits.

jaydee427
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by jaydee427 » Wed Mar 20, 2013 11:43 am

zimmy wrote:Failed my VA inspection due to this mount being broken, didn't think they would pass it with the Volvo fix. I found the insert from O'Reilly's for $33. Pressed it in last night, hoping to hear back from the shop today with good news!
I got my insert from Rock Auto and the diameter of the insert was too big. So what I did was try to pry out the whole housing of the old bushing so I could just slide the new one in. I could not get it done, now the rubber from old bushing is gone, but the trim (round metal ring) it sat on looks like crumpled aluminum foil. The shop said that they have to remove the bracket and machine press out the round metal ring that the old bushing sat on and then press the new one in. If that's the case, I can buy the bracket with the bushing pre-mounted on eBay and just install the bracket. I guessed I should have saved my Volvo RR. What a waste of time and money I am going thru.
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brijack515
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by brijack515 » Sat Mar 23, 2013 9:43 pm

I cannot find the date on this posting that I replaced the roll resister from FCP. Whenever that was, the Volvo Resister has worn out the Ford remnants. I now have to replace it again and am thinking that I will just go ahead and replace the entire unit.

Tasca Ford has a genuine Ford part for $166 w/free shipping. I would rather pay the extra $$ for the genuine part than try buying one of the aftermarket parts sold on eBay for $25-30 less. Not worth the chance.

Have managed to keep it 100% Ford all along and really do not want to stop.

rkneeshaw
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by rkneeshaw » Sun May 19, 2013 6:58 pm

I can't believe more people aren't jumping at the orielly/rockauto solution by anchor (anchor part number 3182). That is an direct replacement bushing rather than trying to modify the volvo bushing and shoving it within the remnants of the original ford bushing...
zimmy wrote:Failed my VA inspection due to this mount being broken, didn't think they would pass it with the Volvo fix. I found the insert from O'Reilly's for $33. Pressed it in last night, hoping to hear back from the shop today with good news!
Zimmy, how did it go? Any difficulties getting it pressed in? Any special tools required? Seems like a balljoint press might really help here....
jaydee427 wrote:I got my insert from Rock Auto and the diameter of the insert was too big. So what I did was try to pry out the whole housing of the old bushing so I could just slide the new one in. I could not get it done, now the rubber from old bushing is gone, but the trim (round metal ring) it sat on looks like crumpled aluminum foil. The shop said that they have to remove the bracket and machine press out the round metal ring that the old bushing sat on and then press the new one in. If that's the case, I can buy the bracket with the bushing pre-mounted on eBay and just install the bracket. I guessed I should have saved my Volvo RR. What a waste of time and money I am going thru.
Thats too bad, doesnt seem like it should be that hard to get that metal ring out after you've removed all the rubber, did you use a chisel or flathead screwdriver to bend and twist out the metal sleeve?
2006 Ford Freestyle SEL AWD

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piratepress
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by piratepress » Wed Jun 05, 2013 6:49 am

I found this one on Ebay. It's a little more expensive but looks like a direct replacement instead of any of the hacking required with the other parts:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FM03-MotorKing- ... 35&vxp=mtr
2006 Freestyle SE FWD [SOLD] 3-22-06 to 2-3-15
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bengoshi2000
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by bengoshi2000 » Thu Jun 06, 2013 3:27 am

I'm getting ready to do the TRR on my wife's '07. I'm reading here that some folks are using a URO Part for the "Volvo Hack". I've got some experience with URO and none of it's good.

My car is an '84 Mercedes 300D. I did a front end rebuild about 18 months ago with URO rubber. I'm now looking at having to redo it all because the crappy URO stuff is starting to fail. If you read about URO parts at the peachparts.com Mercedes forum, you will find that URO parts are widely known for their poor quality. Sad thing is, Myele isn't a whole lot better.

I brought this up because earlier in the thread someone stated that their Volvo Hack only lasted 2 years. That's about right for URO junk.

YMMV,
BEN2k

knowitall
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by knowitall » Thu Jun 06, 2013 12:37 pm

bengoshi2000 wrote:I'm getting ready to do the TRR on my wife's '07. I'm reading here that some folks are using a URO Part for the "Volvo Hack". I've got some experience with URO and none of it's good.

My car is an '84 Mercedes 300D. I did a front end rebuild about 18 months ago with URO rubber. I'm now looking at having to redo it all because the crappy URO stuff is starting to fail. If you read about URO parts at the peachparts.com Mercedes forum, you will find that URO parts are widely known for their poor quality. Sad thing is, Myele isn't a whole lot better.

I brought this up because earlier in the thread someone stated that their Volvo Hack only lasted 2 years. That's about right for URO junk.

YMMV,
BEN2k
That may have been me. :P

I used some Window Weld to fill in the gaps and cracks of my roll resistor so now I have a solid piece.

I think the tube cost me $20.00 and I only used a fraction.

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thegoldenhand
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Re: $8.98 Transaxle Roll Resistor Replacement

Post by thegoldenhand » Sat Jun 08, 2013 3:45 pm

Just wanted to give props to IDS. I'm another success story on your budget-friendly TRR replacement using the Volvo part. The toughest part was trimming the ends of the Volvo bushing as my hacksaw wasn't cutting it fast enough. I instead used my jigsaw with metal shanks to cut it. Took me 3 minutes each side to cut off using the jigsaw.

I did use some Vaseline on one end along with a butter knife to help slide it in. Then the rubber mallet did the rest of the job. I didn't even need to use a clamp to center the new rubber. On the other side while the bushing was about halfway in, I put some rubber glue just to make sure the new bushing somehow adheres to the housing. If that doesn't work then I will consider putting some window-weld. And yes the center of the old rubber was completely ripped off when I took off the brackets.

Really happy to save $$$ with this DIY fix. On to the next issue =)

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