Hi,

I'm wanting to start a comprehensive - hopefully "sticky" thread about the traction control light issue.
I have been researching this for months and have been back at the dealership several times. Still no answers.

My traction control light is on and turns on within a few miles of driving.
At first, there is no difference in the "feel" of the car & movement.

However, after another 10-20 minutes of driving, the steering has slightly more resistance and I can hear, what can only be described as, a humming/vibration while turning (almost as if the power steering were failing - that sort of sound).

I have a 2006 freestyle with 82,000 miles.

I have been to my local mechanic, been to the ford dealership twice, and I've even talked to several Volvo mechanics that won't touch it (even though it is a Volvo part in the rear differential).

Based upon the TSB's provided by Ford, I replaced the pressure sensor kit - twice. No fix.
In speaking with Ford Dealership service managers - they state after that fix, there is no clear answer on a resolve for the issue. After several conversations with ford by the dealership, Ford has only stated that this issue is still under study. So there seems to be no clear fix.

So far my options seem to be - to purchase the DEM (the entire rear electronic module for the differential) or replace the entire backend. These aren't real answers, these are jump to conclusion answers because there is no real cause and effect identifier here.

So, I'm asking the community for help and hopefully I can get an idea of what to do next. (In reading other Ford forums - notably the freestar, seems to have a similar light that is caused by bad wheel speed sensors. - not sure if that applies in this situation, but may be something worth looking at).

Thoughts? Advice? Hail Mary's?

Update:

ford dealership just called and informed me that they finally heard something from Ford.

It basically goes like this - look at the fluid, if it's gross - replace fluid. If the fluid looks good - replace pump.

So I go in for service after the weekend, so I will update from there.

If you've searched the forum, you've found the summaries of the TC light issues with both my 07 FS and 07 Montego, both with AWD. IN the first case (Montego) they tried replacing the pressure switch, but that replacement did nothing. In order to replace the pressure switch, you need to remove the DEM. In the case of the montego, the DEM was shot, and they replaced that as well, and it fixed the problem. Within 2 months, the FS had the same problem. In this case, the pressure switch was the culprit, and the problem was fixed. Symptom was illumination of the TC light after running the car for a minute or so, and it wouldn't turn off till you did a restart. The TC was also inoperative while this was happeniing. Otherwise there were no symptoms as to issues with driving either car.

In your case, if you really are hearing something audible and also feeling something, I'm guessing it's more physical than electrical - and I'd guess the pump would be the problem - but the condition of the fluid would be the telltale sign.

andy

I had the same issue with the TC light in my 06 FS AWD - Ford replaced the pressure switch and that has fixed it. Haven't seen any problems since.

Is all of the traction control - controlled in the rear?

I ask because the sound I am getting is coming from the front (I believe)

Is there another traction/control DEM like device on the front?


Thanks

The traction control is actually thru the front brakes and engine rpm control. Noise from the rear is either the rear diff, rear half-shafts, or the rear bearings. Might be the oil pump problem with insufficent lube or something. Definitely have someone experienced in the Haldex system check it out (assuming it's an 05-07)

andy

Just got back from the dealership. My TC lite was illuminated, sometimes right after start up others 2 miles down the road. The $160 diagnosis is the DEM has a short in it. Because I am 20 days out of my 3/36000 warrenty I pay because the DEM is not a 5/5oooo warrenty item. What irks me off the most is the dealership will not call Ford, its up to me to call an 800 number. The problem with that is you talk to someone who is not a mechanic an engineer or someone with authority to authorize the repair. Just a body quoting company policy with a possibility of a call from Ford. Really disappointed in Fords new policy of not giving the dealership leaway in these matters. In addition to the failure of an expensive part that lasted 3 years 20 days with 27000 miles on the odometer. I did fail to mention that a differential sensor was replaced last year for the same reason and it fixed it for 12 months.

well, I decided that I'm going to go with a used rear assembly (pump & DEM) and trade the darned thing in.
There's so little information out there on this issue, and I don't imagine that it's going to improve. I think Ford is never going to actually come up with a solution or resolve for this issue. The fact that they have no official fix for an '06 is ludicrous.
so be it.

The 5/60 warranty states "all internal parts" of the differential and the transfer case. The DEM appears to be an internal part in my opinion. The dealer may try to say otherwise. I would call and see, sounds like a powertrain item to me. Best of luck

A new DEM part# 7F92-4C016-B cost is $1061 The parts guy told me they fit all 2005-2007 Freestyle all wheel drives. I called an internet auto recycler and they go from $25 to $500. Have one coming for $127 plus shipping. My question if anyone has replaced theirs yet, the recycler said the number on their part was 6F93-4C016-AB, what was the part # of the one you replaced and the new one. I am sure that the # on their part is an engineering number because Ford usually does not put the stock (part) number on their parts. BTW I have drafted a very discouraging letter to the chairman of Ford Motor Company. Get better results that way.

Good luck with this one - I did the arguement about this with the wife's FS about the pressure switch, which is UNDERNEATH the DEM. They literally have to take the DEM out to get at the pressure switch. Ford will claim that the DEM and switch are NOT covered under the powertrain warranty. Not sure who else to elevate it to, but I wasn't successful in changing their minds.....

For me it got covered under the extended warranty - but it cost me an extra hundred bucks I didn't want to spend...

andy

If anyone decides to replace the DEM with a used part make sure the recycling center also include the solinoid valve (the larger of the two) because the two of them are "calibrated" together. Acording to the shop manual it should just pull out of the Halex unit if not they suggest a gentle tug with a pair of channel locks. I have my DEM, now I have to wait for the matching solinoid.

Reading my post after sending I need to clarify that there are two units in the Halex unit after removing the DEM. The larger of the two is the solinoid you need, The smaller unit is the oil pressure/tempature sensor.

Replaced the DEM yesterday. It was a straight forward job but it is in a very confined area. The Haldex unit does not need to be removed. Two wire looms need to be disconnected, the pump wires and the main harness. Next are two bolts. You will need a 4mm allen wrench preferably a long shaft style. Loosen the upper bolt first. This is the hardest part of the job because of the very close proximity of the floor pan. You will have to take short turns on the bolt due to the fact that after you have broken the torque you almost cannot get a hand up there to unthread it. Once it is completly loose ( you cannot remove it, it has to come out with the DEM) you can unbolt the lower bolt which is accessable. You may need to tap the unit for it to come out. Both solinoids will propably stay in the unit and you will have to remove them. Note or draw a picture of the orientation of the upper solinoid electrical tab. I only lost about a tbls of oil as the only opening in the case is for the solinoids and the lowest one is about equal top the level line of the fluid.
There is a plate between the DEM and case. Install the plate and the the smallest of the two solinoids (temperature/pressure) onto the DEM. Note there is a convex washer between the solinoid and plate, the convex (hump) facing up. The largest of the solinoids has to be inserted in the case with the electrical tab orientated (see above) correctly or the DEM will not seat due to the misalignment. Carefully install the DEM (dont forget the upper bolt, it has to be in the DEM ) gently pushing it in position. You may need to take it down to realign the upper solinoid tab. When you believe it is seated start but do not tighten the lower bolt. Now comes the fun part, try to sneak your hand up between the floor a pan and DEM and start the upper bolt. It really wasn't that hard just a pain in a**. Once the upper is tight do the lower reconnect the wire looms. Thats all your done.
I always disconnect the negative cable from the battery before starting any job and in this case it was required to clear the codes. It did fix my TC light being on and my AWD works again (I think). There was oxidation in my old DEM all around the bottom of a capaciter looking electrical cylinder. The dealer said the unit was shorted out. I wish there was a way to diagnose this unit and repair it with parts from an electronic part store. I am not very good with electronics. I know this sounds hard but it isn't, took about 30 minutes or so. No pictures either, have no camera and even if I did I would not know how to put it on the web page sorry. Side note. While attempting to jack the car up I laid a long 2x6 on the floor board in the center of the car and jacked it up. DON'T DO THIS! I now have a large hump in the footwell of the second row behind the driver. Now I have to fix this

Congratulations on this repair. You saved yourself over $1000! Please keep posting to let us know it is working OK.

Creative solutions are always appreciated in this forum!

...Norm