My Ford Freestyle .com

ranger883 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:25 pm

So the Transaxle Roll Resistor...the rubber mount you see on top that is attached to the cross member between the struts...has deteriorated. The dealership wants $500+ to replace. It looks fairly easy to diy but I cant seem to find the part anywhere online. Anyone have any clue as to online parts without going to dealer. Also, has anyone had the joy of replacing the spark plugs? How much was it at your dealer or did you attempt do it yourself and what was your experience with it? Let me know.

Sponsored Links · **Joined:** 24 Oct 2004 02:26 pm **Posts:** N/A

ScotSHO · **Posted:** Mon Jan 19, 2009 8:11 am

The plugs look easy, but you may need to remove the intake to get to the rear plugs.

Try this web site, they have good illustrations for most of the parts.

http://www.fordpartsonline.com/

NKENN · **Joined:** Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:33 pm **Posts:** 8

Concerning the TRR, I searched the world over and could only find one at the dealership for about $200. Then I got a four inch piece of 1/2" heater hose and cut it into two pieces. I then removed the bolt that joins the two TRR sections, separated the sections and squeezed one of the sections of hose behind the rubber insert and squeezed the other piece in front of the rubber insert and then re-joined the two sections of the TRR and and bolted them back together. This rubber hose prevents the transaxle from rolling too far during acceleration/braking and also absorbs the shock when accelerating/braking. It sure beats $200 for a new TRR.

KAH · **Joined:** Mon Dec 22, 2008 12:56 pm **Posts:** 128

I would greatly appreciate further information on the Transaxle Roll Resistor.

When this TRR goes bad, what are the symptoms ?

You mention that you cut a 4 inch piece of rubber tubing into two pieces.
By this, do you mean two lengthwise cuts ? What is the O.D. of this tubing ?

Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Ken H.

NKENN · **Joined:** Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:33 pm **Posts:** 8

Yes, I cut it into two pieces approx 2" long each. I cut it just short enough fit between the fork on the strut that attaches to the firewall. As I recall the I.D. of the hose was 1/2". I had to squeeze the hose pieces to force them in front of and behind the rubber "roll damper" on the TRR (the rubber "roll damper" had separated from its housing and was allowing the transaxle to roll excessively). The hose pieces allow the transaxle to roll some but, they also limit the roll and absorb the shock of sudden acceleration and braking. Right now, it is as good as new.

tucker · **Joined:** Tue Apr 22, 2008 9:18 pm **Posts:** 27

I was changing my oil today and noticed this engine mount (a.k.a. roll resistor) is basically kaput. You can see the cracked rubber on the top. I did not have any symptons (noise, vibration, etc.). I just noticed the debris on the top of the engine and began looking around. I have the extended warranty. I'll just have to make time to take it in.

glenncof · **Joined:** Mon Jun 19, 2006 3:45 pm **Posts:** 213

Thanks for the posts on this topic.

I looked at mine now at 59K miles and it looks like the center section has detached in the bushing. I have extended warranty so I might have Ford dealer do it when I have them fix something else (seat heaters went out).

The 1/2" hose idea starts in the right direction but it looks like some radiator hose should be added to enlarge the diameter to fill the outer groment.

TANGOJETTA · **Posted:** Mon Jul 06, 2009 3:34 pm

I have the same problem, I wonder if there is a TSB about this problem.

olpicker · **Posted:** Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:00 pm

Go to http://www.fordpartscenter.net they have it for around $80.00 plus shipping, it's listed under engine and trans. mounts.

thegoldenhand · **Joined:** Wed May 09, 2007 1:41 pm **Posts:** 229

is the TRR covered by the extended warranty though?

TANGOJETTA · **Posted:** Tue Jul 07, 2009 7:47 am

I bet all the 05-06 Freestyle have this problem and Ford should put out a TSB.

jas88 · **Joined:** Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:48 pm **Posts:** 123

You do have to remove the intake manifold to get to the back bank of plugs, I did mine when I had the intake off to replace a bad coil on #3. You can read the whole saga if you will seach for my thread titled "No start, no run". Here is the pertinent part about removing the intake to get to the plugs:

Quote:

The Ford manual is a bit misleading on removing the upper intake manifold. Maybe not misleading, but not very helpful.

Pretty much the whole part you can see under the hood, the big black blob of plastic on top of the engine, is the upper intake manifold.

The lower intake is only about an inch or so thick and is kinda more like a spacer but it has the fuel rail and injectors in it. However, it is held down on the motor by the same 8 bolts that hold the upper down. The lower is kinda sandwiched between the engine block and the upper intake.

So, when you pull the 8 bolts out (actually just loosen, they are sleeved and won't come all the way out) then you are supposed to, according to the manual, remove the 4 screws that hold the upper to the lower manifold and remove just the upper.

This is hogwash. There is nothing left to hold the lower intake down on the engine anymore so it is just going to come with the upper but you have now disturbed the gaskets on both sides of the lower intake.

So I left the 4 screws in place and pulled the upper and lower together. You do have to remove the fuel line on the left side (as you are facing the motor) and unplug the regulator, and it makes getting the whole assembly in and out a bit more dodgey, but at night and a long way from the parts store, I needed to disassemble as little as possible where gaskets were concerned.

Besides, are you really gonna just let the lower manifold sit there, loose, on the motor without at least cleaning the gasket surfaces? I'm not.

andysinnh · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 11:26 am

So after seeing the wonderful pictures of worn-out roll-resistors (and having dealt with them on a mid-90's Saab 900 I used to own), I went into the garage and checked on the status of those in each of our 07 vehicles. The Montego was built in 6/06 but only has 12k miles - the FS was built in 12/06 and has 30k miles. In both cases, the rubber looked like it came out of the parts bin just yesterday - no signs of cracks whatsoever - rubber pliable and very new looking. Now I know that both mileage and age wear these out - and in terms of Mileage I'm not a candidate. But I figured that given that the 2 vehicles are 3 and 2.5 years old each, that if age was a factor I'd see something - but nothing at all. So either it's only usage that's the issue, or that Ford used an upgraded TRR on the 07 models - including the very early 07 models, like my Montego that was like within the first 100 off the line from Chicago that summer....

andy

jas88 · **Joined:** Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:48 pm **Posts:** 123

I checked my TRR last night and it is shot, worse even than the ones in the pics here. I am gonna try the heater hose trick first because, if you have seen my homemade ski rack, you know I love cheap solutions.

ColdCranker · **Joined:** Sun Feb 05, 2006 9:16 pm **Posts:** 166

Two possible causes of Roll Restrictor bushing failures:
1. Original manufacturing defective rubber formulation.
2. Hard acceleration when its very cold. That puts force on the rubber bushing from engine torque, and its brittle when very cold.
My '05 Freestyle bushing is good now, and its seen some cold weather. Might be one more good reason not to jam the accelerator down hard when its cold out until the engine can warm up under the hood.

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Replacing Spark Plugs / Transaxle Roll Resistor

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