Oil filters for Duratec 3.0L
Ford’s P/N is F1AZ-6731-BD
September 2006
NOTE: ALL OF THIS IS SUBJECT TO MANUFACTURER CHANGES AND SOURCING ISSUES SUCH AS INVETORY AND SUPPLY LINE CHANGES. IT IS RECOMMENED TO VISUALLY CHECK THE FILTER EACH TIME FROM YOUR SOURCE.
Motorcraft FL-820S (Walmart $2.35, AutoZone $4, PepBoys $5).
This filter appears to be made by Puralator as external construction looks almost identical. The holes in the base are elongated and it uses the preferred Silicon ADBV with S on end of p/n. The bypass valve is in the base. It is speculated by some to have better particle filtration by using the PureONE media.
Champion Labs is an OEM supplier to Ford and is the probable source for the filter that comes on the engine from the factory. They look different (light gray) than the MC. Champion may have a patent on the base bypass design and share it with Ford. I have also read that a Champ version was distributed at some point by Motorcraft as the FL820(S?).
Purolator PremiumPLUS L24651 and PureONE PL24561 ($3.50 / $6 Pepboys)
www.pureoil.com
The construction looks like the FL-820S except the bypass valve in the dome, not the base. Both have the red Silicon ADBV. They are considered by others as moderate flow rate and the PureONE is very well regarded on particle size. They claim 98% multi-pass efficiency for PureONE and claim 10-20um filtration for the lower PremiumPLUS on website. They call the better media Micronic.
Purolator was/is owned by Arvin Meritor who has signed an agreement with Bosch and Mann to sell it and be run as a joint venture. See
www.arvinmeritor.com. Watch for any changes.
Bosch Premium 3410 ($6 Autozone)
www.boschautoparts.com/Products/Filters ... ilters.htm
This was observed to be identical to Purolator with red ADBV and dome bypass. 98% efficiency is claimed on the box (microns?)
WIX 51372, Napa Gold 1372, and Carquest 85372
($3 by case
www.fleetfilter.com , Napa ~$6, Carquest $7)
www.wixfilters.com
WIX (Dana) is well regarded filter company. I looked at the Napa Gold version and the bypass valve is in the dome, the ADBV is red Silicon. WIX website generally claims bypass is in the base but when I checked it was also in the dome. Flow is rated at 11-13gpm, 19 micron nominal, and bypass valve set for 12-15 psi. Right now WIX website says they are using “paper” on the 51372 but I would watch them for improved filtration material.
WIX also has general information on “Glass enhanced” media good down to 10-20um and is specified in some other oil filter applications. They call it “depth” vs. “paper” media. On a Napa web site I found “T-03 Glass Enhanced Media” for the Gold 1372 (FIL1372) and NASCAR version (NFI91372, $3.70) uses “T-52 Synthetic/Cellulose Media” with black ADBV and dome bypass. So who knows ? I’ve emailed Wix twice on this to clarify but no response.
Mobil M1-210 ($11 Pepboys/Kragen)
www.mobiloil.com
M1 appears to be the first major brand claiming synthetic filtration. This filter is well regarded by many but may not have the flow rate of the K&N. It has small holes in the base plate and stamped ZZ. Silicon ADBV is there but bypass in the dome and set for 9.5psi. They appear to be made by Champion Labs and claim 99.2% under SAE J1858 Multi-Pass Efficiency Test (microns?).
K&N HP-2010 ($9 online, $12 Kragen/Pepboys)
www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-2010
K&N claims high flow and excellent filtration using phenolic-resin impregnated cellulose. Construction looks identical to the M1 externally and Champion is probable manufacture. Even the ZZ is stamped on the base plate. Red Silicon ADBV and dome bypass. They claim the ”Performance Gold line is from 12-16gpm ‘capable’ of trapping 10-20um.” based on the larger HP3008 filter, so I suspect it’s ~14gpm.
Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 ($14 online)
www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_deta ... Field=7567
Ford says it has Silicon ADBV and Synthetic-Polymer/Cellulose-Fiber blend media.
Champ Labs PH820 (Luberfiner)
www.champlabs.com/products/oilfilters.html www.servicechamp.com/prod_res_docs/Ecor ... 0Sheet.pdf
($3each+$5 shipping on Amazon.com)
ECORE was a new construction technique which can be seen on their above website. They have a “patent” claimed on integrated bypass/ADBV on the base plate which is also shown. I have not seen a PH820 but I have seen a SuperTech and AC Delco versions. A Champ document claims the design is tested to 96/94% single/dual pass per SAE HS806(10-20um) / J1858(20um) using media 9668.
www.servicechamp.com/prod_res_docs/Ecor ... 0Sheet.pdf
AC Delco PF1250 ($3.50 Pepboys)
http://www.acdelco.com/parts/filters/oil-filters.htm
This was found to be a Champion Ecore design. The filter height was reduced by about 20%. It had a thin backplate and a second one added for easing blind installation. The bypass is in the base with black ADBV. The most unusual aspect is you see the pleats inside. A black plastic cage held them in place; maybe 90% open, unlike others using a perforated metal tube. See the diagram of Champ filter on their website above, item labeled “nylon core”. I have also seen a reference to a PF1250CL listed as “Classic Design”.
FRAM PH2 and Pennzoil PZ-42 ($5.50 Kragen)
www.fram.com/products/oilFilters.php
These appear to be the same with “2S” stamped on the base plate and black ADBV. The bypass appeared to be in the dome and valve may be plastic. The PH2 box claims 96%/94% single/dual pass efficiency per the manufacture, Honeywell, testing to SH806 J1858 spec (microns?). FRAM MH2 ($9 Kragen) physically looked like the PH2 but had a plastic insert in the outlet hole to hold the time release TRT additive for this “high mileage” version.
FRAM TG2 ($7 Kragen, $5 Walmart)
The box claims it is synthetic glass/cellulose filter and has 99% efficiency for >20um per Honeywell testing to SH806 J1858. This Tough Guard had the red Silicon ADBV also. The bypass in the dome is probably plastic and the box said a bypass screen was included.
Baldwin (Parent of Hastings)
Baldwin B329 ($5-6 online), Hastings LF110 ($4), Amsoil SDF-11 (new EAO11 $16), Casite CA-110
www.baldwinfilter.com The site has a good general discussion on filter media.
www.hastingsfilters.com
www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eao.aspx
Others:
STP S2 ($3.20 Autozone) Champion Ecore design.
SuperTech ST-2 ($2 Walmart brand) Champion Ecore
Carquest 85372 ($7.30) WIX,
www.carquest.com/techbulletins/Filters/cfipres.pdf
Valvoline VO-47 (Champ ?, Maxlife version is Purolator)
Quaker State - QS-2 (QS filter website redirects to Purolator)
Donaldson 550965
Oversized Filter List (check for clearance and applicability)
You should verify seal dimensions before using anything here.
Baldwin # 281......h 5 9/32"....bpv 20 psi
Carquest # 85087 and 85592 (see Wix below) ~$12-14
Donaldson # p553315 and p550166....h 5." bpv 17-20psi
Fleetguard # lf3315....h 5.61"..bpv=17.4psi
Hastings # LF444...bpv=20psi
Motorcraft # EFL252
Purolator # L30238...h 5.28"...bpv=20psi
Wix #51087...h 5.47"...bpv=19psi
Wix #51592...h 5.214".bpv=18-20psi ($12 at Napa)
Since these are 22x1.5mm metric threaded, perhaps look for European filter manufactures of truck filters.
MY EXPERIENCE
My relevant experience was on a 1997 Chevy Tahoe, 5.7 liter. I ran Castrol 5-10W30 dino for over 100K miles using primarily low-end FRAM filters. OCI was 3000 miles except 3 runs of 6000 miles using Castrol Syntec 5W30. It consumes no oil in 3000 mile changes at 137K miles. It used 2/3 qt during 6000 miles using the Syntec. This was primarily local driving, i.e. a mom’s truck. My conclusion was I could use almost any filter in 3000 mile OCI.
SO WHAT FILTER ? (warning, this is based on lots of opinions)
It depends on what is important to you. In February I got a new vehicle with Ford’s Duratec 3.0l engine and want to get results similar to my Tahoe but using full synthetic 5W20 and 5000 mile OCI. Ford warranty requires 5000 mile OCI. Motorcraft 5W20 blend is recommended by Ford but both dino and full synthetic are accepted.
ADBV – I never had a problem running 5W30 oil with black Nitrile with horizontally mounted filter on the 5.7l engine. The red Silicon appears better especially for very hot/cold climates. If I have a problem at start-up I’ll worry about. So silicon ADBV is minor consideration to me for now.
Bypass valve location is better in the base especially if the filter got loaded and ran into bypass a lot. If filter goes into bypass only temporarily, such as start-up and occasional high revving, I don’t care about location since the filter is horizontal. (If the filter hangs with the bypass valve down I would worry.) I may care if I was sever duty or hard-driver but then I would then be more concerned about flow rate and bypass psi.
I read some findings on particle count/distribution after 5000 miles showed PureONE media did an excellent job, slightly better than the K&N (caveats abound). A PureONE type filter is expected to have more media stuffed into the can resulting in much lower flow rate. If I’m sever duty or hard-driver, I feel the K&N may be a good trade-off as one Mazda hard-driver (Duratec) indicated better UOA compared to FL-820/PureONE. Then again I may just do OCI at 3000 miles as recommended by Ford for sever duty.
My big concern is filter load-up with these improved media resulting in filter bypass. I have some experiments planned for this but will take awhile to get actual road results.
MC FL-820S
This one is hard to beat based on low cost, likely PureONE filtration, and other features. I’ll also watch for any changes to the Champ Ecore design which would be a concern.
.
PureONE
I would expect same results as the current FL-820. I’ve seen 2-for-1 deals on Bosch and that may make it attractive. Your costs may change your preferences.
WIX 1372
Generally I consider this to be a well rounded, higher flowing filter. I see them as low cost substitute for K&N in sever & hard-driver applications, also perhaps for very cold weather. It bothers me that I can’t get a handle of media with WIX. I suspect right now the WIX Brand may be straight paper. Also I like the oversized 51592 with better 16 micron rating. The Glass Enhanced T-03 media may be ideal for this application providing flow rate and good particle filtration; but how do you know what you’ve got inside the filter ?
M1 210
Probably good flow rate and load-up characteristics using the synthetic-blend media. Absolute filtration may be slightly better than PureONE and have better flow but at what a price ! I have read some issues about inconsistent pleat spacing and think I could see it on the one I have. If I was doing 7-10K mile OCI then I would feel better using synthetic media.
K&N 2010
This appears to be a great combination of high flow and good particle filtration. If you really need oil pressure, I’d take a few more particles any day especially given the quality media available. If you are considering this one, I would also look at Ford Racing version.
Champ Ecore
The jury is still out on this design. I have read about the media getting sucked into the outlet, in both cases 20W50 was being used on larger engines. The bottom line seems only down side to this design. Smaller can, not better filtering, and lack of flow rating don’t warm my heart.
FRAM TG2
If you can get over their reputation and the possible use of cardboard end caps & plastic bypass valve then the Tough Guard would likely get you, arguably, some of the best filtration of this class based on information printed on the box.
Baldwin B329
Their website shows a two stage filter design which is interesting.
Donaldson also has this for HD truck applications but no metric threads.
BACKGROUND
The elements to consider for a filter for everyday use are:
1) Filtration (flow rate and particle size)
2) Cost
3) Anti-drain back valve (ADBV) material
4) Bypass valve location & material
5) Reliable internal construction (not addressed here)
The Brand you buy is often not the manufacture of the filter. I suspect within one Brand there could be a several manufactures across the product line. The Brand could specify something special but that could change, as well as, the manufacture. There may be even quality variations from plant to plant. Everything is subject to change and getting reliable information from Brands is not easy. Therefore these findings do not necessarily apply to other filters from the Brand.
I check the number and size/shape of holes in the base plate although this has little to do with flow. This is more to check similarities for manufacture. Next I look at bypass and anti-drain valves.
Filtration is a double edge sword. High flow rates can be achieved by letting larger particles through. Small particles can be filtered but at expense of flow rate especially latter in the life cycle. The way around this is more filter pleat area but if filter size is fixed then, at a certain point putting more filter material actually causes congestion lowering the flow rate.
Most filters are cellulose, which is paper. A few filters add resin to the paper or other material such as glass or synthetic fibers. A good discussion on filter media is on the Baldwin site and in the article below on motorcycle filters. Also see:
www.purolator-facet.com/pdfs/hpfilter.pdf for some visual comparisons of media.
The importance of particle size and flow rates is debated by the experts. Flow rates will also change as the filter is used and how dirty the engine is. I have had some engines run dirty and other run clean. I don’t know yet on the Duratec. See
www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/89-5R3.pdf on testing.
The Anti-Drain Back Valve (ADBV) is to prevent oil from draining the filter for good flow at start-up. Hydraulic lifter noise can be heard during start-up at times resulting from oil starvation. If the filter hangs down, with the base plate up, then ADBV does nothing. On my Duratec it is sideways so the filter could drain completely. The material is usually black Nitrile while a better material is the red Silicon due to longer life at higher temperature.
The Bypass valve opens when the filter pressure exceeds a certain limit, allowing oil to bypass filtration. The most common location is in the dome area of the filter can. Look in the hole toward the dome end and you can see a spring and/or other things at the other end if located there. If it’s solid then bypass valve may be in the base, if included at all. The better location for the bypass valve is in the base (threaded end) of the filter as bypass oil does not wash over filter material. The FL820 seems to have rubber covered spring at the base. Although it’s better to be in the base than the dome but the advantage is debatable.
Reference reading;
See
www.wixfilters.com/productinformation/index.html and click on elements for a good visual with description.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/52135 ... ilter.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/86992 ... -820s.html
http://forums.pickuptruck.com/showflat. ... ain=424294
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about2557.html
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ find section on Oil Filters
http://www.boatengine.net/t/049528.html
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html
http://72.14.203.104/search?q=cache:r6f ... =clnk&cd=5
http://www.contour.org/archive/showflat ... o=&fpart=1
http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache:tuu ... =clnk&cd=2
www.motoroilworld.com/choosing_an_oil_filter.html
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